"Miso Ajitama" Marinated Overnight in White Miso and Garlic: Ryuji Makes an Ajitama Recipe for the First Time in a While, from Prep to Tasting

This batch uses 10 large eggs. Ryuji explains that the recipe works with as few as 6, and that the quantities for that will be listed separately in the description. While a generous pot of water comes to a boil for the eggs, the marinating miso is made in a plastic bag.

First goes 1 tablespoon of sugar, the reasoning being that miso tastes better with a little sweetness. The miso is the white variety of Yamabuki Miso that Ryuji always uses, and the amount is 4½ tablespoons. Ryuji admits this is "a bit much" but says that since it's a miso marinade, using this much makes it taste better. A silicone spoon makes measuring the miso easier. Next come ½ tablespoon of water and 1 tablespoon of soy sauce.

When 1 tablespoon of sesame oil goes in, a staff member remarks, "You don't usually put sesame oil in miso, right?" Ryuji agrees that it isn't usual, but explains that marinating in miso alone makes the miso flavor too strong, while the aroma of sesame oil makes it far easier to eat.

Next, Ryuji adds Ajinomoto, counting out 11 shakes. This is because the miso used here doesn't contain dashi, and MSG pairs extremely well with miso. Declaring that the combination of garlic and miso is "justice," Ryuji also adds about 8 g of grated garlic. Bonito powder can go in too if you have it, but that's a matter of preference; since this batch uses a good miso in Yamabuki Miso, Ryuji decides to finish it with just the savoriness of the miso and the garlic. Kneading the bag from the outside to mix completes the garlic miso. Ryuji adds that this miso is also delicious for marinating cheese.

About two swirls of vinegar go into the pot of water. In Ryuji's method, the eggs are first wetted with lukewarm water. Ryuji presents this as a personal technique, phrasing it as "I believe" that it reduces the temperature difference and may make the eggs less likely to crack.

The water needs to be at a full boil. If the eggs are boiled over low heat, the outside (the surface of the white) won't set properly, and the eggs will be hard to peel. The eggs are gently lowered into the rolling boil and cooked for 7½ minutes once they're all in. While they boil, the heat is kept fairly high so the water keeps bubbling. Ryuji's explanation is that heat entering from the surface firms up the exterior, which makes the eggs easier to peel.

Even when lowered gently, eggs sometimes crack anyway. In conversation with the staff, they concluded that eggs crack when they already have tiny flaws, and in fact about three eggs cracked this time. Ryuji recommends a relaxed attitude: cracked eggs still hold together when peeled, the shape doesn't change even if a bit of white leaks out, and it's fine to go in thinking that if half of the 10 eggs turn out well, that's good enough.

A staff member also pointed out that "there's also the method of starting them in cold water." Ryuji replied that the cold-start method exists, but temperature control is difficult and it takes extra time.

Once boiled, the eggs are rapidly cooled in water. A staff member mentioned that when they used to work part-time at a café, they would chill eggs in cold water before peeling. Ryuji agreed that ice water is actually better, adding that plain water is fine now because it's the cold season, but ice water is best in summer.

Thanks in part to the vinegar in the boiling water, many of the shells slipped right off. On the other hand, some occasionally crumbled into pieces, which Ryuji says depends on how fresh the eggs are. Ryuji demonstrated that even cracked eggs keep their shape fairly well if peeled carefully, but acknowledged of one egg that fell apart, "This one's no good."

What Ryuji emphasized here is that it's less stressful to think of 80% surviving as good enough. Even a cooking expert finds peeling eggs a hassle, so it's only natural that everyone does. Broken eggs aren't inedible either; you can just eat them with mayonnaise or salt.

After the peeled eggs go into the bag with the miso, the whole bag is submerged in water. The water pressure pushes the air out, and the bag is tied off in that state. Tying it as close to the top as possible and leaving some extra room makes it easier for the miso to spread over everything.

Then the miso is gently moved around from outside the bag to coat all the eggs, but kneading too hard will break the yolks and make them burst out. It's enough for the miso to be spread fairly evenly. One egg was lost during this step, but Ryuji shrugs it off as "that's how it goes." The eggs are then left to marinate for a full day.

When the egg that fell apart during peeling was opened, the yolk was runny. Ryuji said it's best eaten with Aji-Shio and black pepper, and that failed eggs can be snacked on like this — not that it's something to be proud of — and wrapped up the first day with a laugh.

The next day, the eggs in the bag looked dramatically different. A staff member said they looked "like dinosaur eggs," and Ryuji shot back, "What kind of -saurus is going to hatch?" Liquid had come out, and the whole thing had become a thick, miso-marinated mass.

The corner of the bag is cut and the contents are emptied into a bowl. The marinade has many uses, so it's saved. The eggs had absorbed plenty of flavor, and the sauce itself is sweet and "ridiculously good." The miso on the surface can be wiped off or left on. Cut in half, the yolks are runny, and Ryuji jokingly declared the dish done, saying, "My own talent scares me."

Next comes what Ryuji calls the most luxurious way to eat it: on top of rice. First a little garlic miso is spooned onto the rice, then an ajitama is placed on top and sprinkled with bonito flakes. For drinkers, Ryuji says you can also drizzle the leftover sauce over an ajitama and eat it on its own.

After tasting, Ryuji noted that the flavor had soaked not just into the sauce but all the way into the egg, and that one day of marinating is plenty. The yolk becomes "like a rich cheese," with flavor reaching all the way into it. It has a mellowness and savoriness that set it apart from conventional ajitama, and Ryuji thinks it would go well with wine too. After eating it with rice, Ryuji said, "I think bonito flakes are essential."

Ryuji seemed surprised as well, saying that since it was an old recipe they weren't sure how it would hold up, but it was extremely good and might be the best ajitama yet. Ryuji also mentioned that this recipe appears in the book Ryuji-Style Bento for Living and that it works well in a bento.

When a staff member asked, "Does the flavor keep soaking in the longer you marinate it?", Ryuji answered with some speculation: it does soak in, but this recipe seems to be made strong enough to marinate in a single day, so marinating longer probably won't change much.

The staff also tasted it. Because raw garlic had gone in, they had imagined a stronger flavor, but their impression was that it was actually "super mild" and delicious. They agreed with Ryuji's question, "You thought it would be a bit harsher, didn't you?", and said of the rice topped with bonito flakes, "The rice is great."

Ryuji said they'd like to serve this for breakfast, and went on to suggest that miso ramen shops should offer it as miso ajitama rice. Even at miso ramen shops, the ajitama served alongside is usually a regular soy sauce one, but in Ryuji's view, this is the one that goes with it.

Ways to use the marinating miso and ajitama were also suggested. Tossing boiled Chinese noodles in the leftover miso and mixing in a broken-up ajitama makes something like miso noodles. Boiling stick-style ramen you have at home, such as Marutai Ramen, and coating it in the miso works too.

For changing up the flavor, karashi mustard, chili oil and sansho pepper were prepared. Ryuji said karashi or chili oil goes well with miso, a combination Ryuji discovered at a ramen shop in Ebisu (a staff member asked whether it was something learned at HikaKin's place, but Ryuji said it was a different shop). After trying all three, Ryuji confirmed that miso and sansho also go well together.

Finally, Ryuji wrapped up by calling this miso ajitama an exceptionally good ajitama that goes with anything, whether over rice or with noodles, and said the variations are endless.