Nanase Aikawa Shares "The Aikawa Family's Okonomiyaki": A Kansai Home-Cooked Taste Made Every Week and Eaten with Rice

Translated from 日本語

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Overview

In this episode of "Buzz Recipe," the channel run by cooking researcher Ryuji, singer Nanase Aikawa, who is celebrating the 30th anniversary of their debut, appears as a guest. Ryuji usually does the cooking, but this time Aikawa shows what they normally eat at home. The dish was okonomiyaki, which Aikawa's family has eaten together since Aikawa was a child. Ryuji, who grew up in the Kanto region and thought of okonomiyaki as "something special you eat at a restaurant," learns how okonomiyaki is made in a Kansai home, and at the end tries eating it with rice and miso soup.

16 min read
0:46

How the Collaboration Came About, and a Concept Built on Wanting to See "Everyday Meals"

According to Ryuji, they heard that Aikawa was looking for collaboration partners for the 30th anniversary and volunteered. Ryuji has listened to Aikawa's music since childhood and often played "Koigokoro" at home. Ryuji said they also liked the music video, and Aikawa added that it is about a bank robbery and ends with the character being shot and killed. Ryuji said they watched it over and over, drawn in by how cool it was, without really understanding the story.

When they discussed what kind of collaboration to do, Ryuji suggested, "I want to see what you normally eat," and that became the concept. Aikawa is from Kansai, and even now okonomiyaki appears on the family table at least once a week, because the children want to eat it. When Aikawa was a child, the whole family made okonomiyaki together every Saturday.

Ryuji is from Chiba, and their family had no habit of making okonomiyaki at home. Ryuji first encountered okonomiyaki when the family went to a nearby location of the chain restaurant "Dotonbori," and said they thought of it as "not something you eat at home." The last time Ryuji learned to make okonomiyaki was from a professional at Otafuku Sauce, and that method was quite orthodox. This time, the batter is made with flour and potato starch instead of okonomiyaki flour. Calling it a method you would almost never see in Kanto, Ryuji was already excited from the moment they saw the ingredients.

5:59

The Batter: Flour and Potato Starch at 5 to 1, Every Seasoning One Teaspoon

The batter ingredients are 100 g of flour, 20 g of potato starch, Hondashi, soy sauce, sugar, salt, an egg, scallions, and 180 cc of water. Aikawa explained that the potato starch is there because it makes the batter smooth. With flour alone, it isn't exactly crumbly, but it doesn't come out moist. Ryuji confirmed that the combination is a 5 to 1 ratio.

Aikawa said Hondashi is the best choice for the dashi and stressed, "I really want you to put this in." Bonito powder and the like can be added later, but Hondashi is what settles the flavor. Hondashi, soy sauce, and sugar are each a teaspoon as the baseline. If you like a stronger flavor, you can use a tablespoon of dashi; Aikawa's family asks for strong flavors, so Aikawa uses tablespoons of both dashi and soy sauce. If you prefer a milder taste, teaspoons are fine, Aikawa explained.

Aikawa is also particular about the order of mixing. Aikawa finds that mixing the flour, seasonings, and egg first and then adding the water keeps lumps from forming, and always makes it in that order. Takoyaki batter is made the same way.

The amount of water came up again after the tasting. With 120 g of flour and starch combined, 200 cc of water makes it too runny, so Aikawa considers 180 cc the "golden ratio." You can make it with 200 cc, but the batter gets thinner, so people who like a thin batter might be fine with 200 cc, Aikawa added.

14:25

The Fillings: Grilled Chikuwa Is Essential, Konjac Is a Holdover from Mom's Cooking

What sets the Aikawa family's okonomiyaki apart is that it includes grilled chikuwa and konjac. Aikawa called grilled chikuwa "absolutely essential," saying the flavor differs depending on whether it is in or not, because the chikuwa releases dashi. When there is no chikuwa, Aikawa uses kamaboko, because the color is cute. While saying the chikuwa amount is up to personal taste, Aikawa thinks more is tastier, and chopped it finely.

Aikawa's mother used to simmer the konjac sweetly in soy sauce before adding it. Aikawa doesn't go to that trouble, but still adds konjac. The only prep was rinsing it; the package said it did not need parboiling to remove bitterness, so Aikawa used it as is. Like the chikuwa, it was sliced thin, and about half a block was used. If you want to take an extra step, simmering it sweet and savory in soy sauce makes it feel even more like a side dish.

Ryuji had once been taught okonomiyaki with konjac by someone from Osaka, and asked whether it is a Kansai thing. Aikawa answered that they think it is Kansai, but also said konjac rarely shows up when you look up okonomiyaki recipes.

The vegetables are cabbage and scallions. The cabbage core is removed and the cabbage roughly cut. Chopping it too fine loses the crunch, so Aikawa keeps it to about a coarse mince. The amount is half a head, which Aikawa says is on the generous side for two servings. Aikawa loves scallions and added plenty.

12:05

Why It's "Buta Modern," and How the Noodles and Pork Are Handled

That day's version was "buta modern," with pork and yakisoba noodles. Aikawa explained that noodles go in because okonomiyaki is mostly cabbage, so you get hungry again later. The noodles make it more filling. Ryuji replied that they love modern-yaki too and always order it at restaurants. However, Ryuji had never made it and didn't really know how.

Ideally, the noodles taste better if lightly stir-fried with Worcestershire sauce first to season them. Even so, Aikawa said that when short on time, they just cut the noodles and put them in as is. Ryuji was delighted, saying that kind of shortcut is exactly what goes over best on Buzz Recipe.

The pork belly is cut into fairly large pieces, because it shrinks when cooked. But if it is too long, it separates from the batter when you eat it, so there is an ideal length. For sauce, nothing but Otafuku Sauce will do, and Aikawa always keeps a fresh bottle in stock in the fridge. Running out unexpectedly leaves Aikawa feeling, "How am I supposed to eat this without sauce?"

17:33

Cooking: Batter Mixed One Pancake at a Time, Fillings on Top, Then More Batter Poured Over

Aikawa doesn't mix all the batter and fillings together in the bowl, but combines them one pancake's worth at a time. That's because the size and amount differ depending on who is eating, and Aikawa judges the amount of batter by feel. Too little and the fillings won't hold together; too much and it gets too wet, so Aikawa adds it while checking. The mixed batter was loose, and Aikawa explained that the potato starch makes it even more so.

Either sesame oil or regular oil is fine, and sesame oil is good if you want to enjoy the aroma. That day Aikawa used rice bran oil and cooked over medium heat. Spreading it too wide means it takes longer to cook through. Aikawa's approach is to keep the size modest so it cooks all the way through.

Yakisoba and pork are placed on top of the cooking batter, and then more batter is poured over them. Ryuji was surprised, calling it "a method I've never heard of." Without enough batter poured on top, the other side won't stick properly when flipped. Tenkasu can be added too, either mixed into the batter or placed on top. After flipping, pressing down with the spatula makes it cook faster.

Ryuji had always mixed the pork into the batter before cooking. Aikawa acknowledged that this is also delicious, and that of course there is also the method of chopping all the fillings finely and mixing them in. That said, Aikawa explained that their batter isn't the type that puffs up fluffy like an Osaka-style pancake, and is probably closer to a Hiroshima-style batter. Ryuji commented that it looked like a thin, light batter, and said the konjac would probably add texture too.

It is finished with sauce, mayonnaise, bonito flakes, and aonori. The first one was made with the pork side up, and the reason was explained when the second one was cooked.

21:07

Variations: Leftovers from the Fridge, Kimchi, Tomato and Cheese

While it cooked, Aikawa talked about variations. Aikawa personally likes a simple buta-tama or buta modern, but when friends come over, they add kimchi, or cheese and corn. Kimchi gets mixed into the batter, while cheese might be better added later.

Aikawa also said okonomiyaki is a dish that lets you clean out the fridge. Mushrooms or whatever else, you can toss in whatever is left over and it still works, and it's probably delicious. There was also the idea that adding tomato, cheese, and corn might make it pizza-like. Aikawa's view is that precisely because it is an everyday food, having unusual versions makes you think, "Maybe I'll have a little more." For adults, it is also nice to cook a plain one alongside one with your favorite fillings and enjoy two kinds. Aikawa said they sometimes pair okonomiyaki with wine, and Ryuji responded, "How stylish."

For Ryuji, okonomiyaki was "something special," and it felt as if you weren't supposed to put fillings like these in, because it wasn't an everyday food. Aikawa answered that in Kansai it is an everyday food, and they grew up eating rice with it as a side dish. After coming to Tokyo, Aikawa was surprised that people didn't eat it that way. Prefacing it by saying it might be a bit rude, Aikawa said their reaction was "Seriously?", and added that they only noticed the difference after moving away.

Ryuji said they believe flavors built up over years at home can sometimes surpass restaurants. For Ryuji, their grandmother's simmered dishes are tastier than any restaurant's.

8:57

The First Taste of Monjayaki in Tokyo

The other "food that surprised me in Tokyo" was monjayaki. When Aikawa debuted, the members of LUNA SEA took them under their wing. Whenever Aikawa went out to eat with Shinya and INORAN, the destination was always monjayaki. They brought Aikawa along saying, "Nanase-chan, you're from Kansai, so you've definitely never had this," and it was a shock. When Aikawa said it didn't firm up even when cooked, they were told it is meant to be eaten without firming up.

10:09

A "Recipe Notebook" So Anyone in the Family Can Make It

While cutting cabbage, Aikawa also talked about how things work at home. Aikawa writes recipes in a notebook, and both okonomiyaki and takoyaki are written down in full. That way, anyone in the family can make the same thing. If Aikawa asks the family to "get it ready," all the ingredients are prepared and Aikawa only has to do the cooking. When Aikawa is abroad, the children make it themselves when they want it.

They often make takoyaki too. The children prefer okonomiyaki, but when friends come over and they make takoyaki, the friends say they have never done it at home and are all very happy.

Aikawa said they love cooking. Cooking relieves stress, and Aikawa feels this is what it means to move your fingers. Aikawa also said stress builds up when they stop cooking. In the past, when staff came to the house, Aikawa would cook for them, and the karaage was especially popular; they were asked to make it again and again.

13:00

The 30th Anniversary Budokan Show, and "BREAK OUT" in the Car

Music also came up between cooking steps. Aikawa has a 30th anniversary live show at the Budokan scheduled for November 2, the first at the Budokan in 28 years. Aikawa invited Ryuji to the show.

Ryuji said that when living in Chiba, they drove every day, and the CDs for the car always included Aikawa's songs. Saying the songs pumped them up so much that once on the expressway they would end up stepping on the gas and speeding, the two named "BREAK OUT" and laughed together.

Ryuji's hobby is going to karaoke bars, and there someone almost always sings an Aikawa song. The one most often sung is "Yumemiru Shōjo ja Irarenai," which is sung by people of all ages. Aikawa also said that young people and students often sing it, thanks to TikTok and the like.

26:39

Tasting: Not Floury, and Light

After eating, Ryuji said it was really delicious, with the cabbage flavor coming through strongly and no flouriness. Of the batter's flavor, Ryuji said, "It's perfect, as far as I'm concerned." Ryuji also said the konjac and chikuwa were really making a difference. Aikawa explained that this flavor came from just a teaspoon of each seasoning, and repeated that if you want more flavor in the batter, you can use tablespoons. Aikawa also added that since it takes time to cook, making it as thin as possible lets you eat sooner.

The word both of them kept saying was "light." Aikawa really loves a light batter, and says that precisely because it is light, you feel like trying variations and can eat two. Store-bought okonomiyaki flour is convenient, but it has a lot of flour and ends up feeling like you're eating flour. Most homes have flour and potato starch, and you can make the batter to your liking. Aikawa said this ratio is where they landed after experimenting and finding "this is just right."

One of the staff members who tasted it said their mother often sings Aikawa's songs, so they wanted to brag about it. Aikawa also said that flour-based dishes have the fun of an activity where everyone makes them together in a lively way.

29:29

Trying an Okonomiyaki Set Meal for the First Time

At this point, Aikawa recommended eating it with rice and miso soup. For the miso soup, shijimi clams are good. Ryuji had never once eaten okonomiyaki together with rice. Aikawa explained that you should just think of it as tonkatsu.

After trying it, Ryuji said, "Whoa, this might actually work," and said they simply hadn't had the concept of eating it that way. While saying they don't know why it works, Ryuji thinks the grilled chikuwa might be doing a good job. Aikawa agreed that it has to be grilled chikuwa. Because the flavor is strong, it works even with rice. Ryuji speculated that the light batter might also be a reason.

Ryuji also tried the miso soup and said, "That works." Aikawa described it as an "infinite loop" where the miso soup refreshes your mouth and you go back to the okonomiyaki. Ryuji laughed, saying they might never do it again, but would probably never forget this experience.

Aikawa, for their part, said they don't currently eat okonomiyaki with rice at home either. Still, when back in Osaka and seeing an okonomiyaki set meal, Aikawa sometimes feels nostalgic and thinks about ordering it.

34:04

The Second One, and Why "the Pork Goes on Top"

Aikawa said the second one came out a bit too big. Aikawa makes sure the pork ends up on top when flipping. The underside (the side cooked with the pork facing down) looks nicer, but if the pork is on the bottom, it slides around when you cut it. Then someone complains, "There was no pork on mine." If you prioritize appearance, do it the other way around, Aikawa added.

Aikawa also shared a childhood memory. When there was leftover okonomiyaki batter, their grandmother would dump a load of sugar into it and cook something like a thin pancake. As a child, Aikawa really looked forward to it. Ryuji said that things passed down through a family really touch the heart, and that it warmed their heart a lot.

32:37

Next Time: Food Delivered to the Budokan

Finally, as thanks, Ryuji offered to bring food on the day of the Budokan show. Ryuji will cook it in the studio and deliver it. Aikawa is the type who eats a proper meal before going on stage, loves meat, and sometimes even eats steak. Aikawa said they also want plenty of carbohydrates.

Tetsuro Oda is scheduled to play guitar at the Budokan show; Oda can't eat much meat, but eats a lot of fish and vegetables. Ryuji promised to make both meat dishes and non-meat dishes. The episode closed with the announcement that next time, Buzz Recipe plans to show the delivery to the Budokan and the live show.

What Ryuji discovered in this episode was that okonomiyaki can be enjoyed with ingredients where "not a single one is special," and that okonomiyaki can also be a side dish to go with rice.