Should Middle-Aged Men Wear Shorts? Designer Shunsuke Ishikawa Makes the Case from Fashion History

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Overview

Tokyo's suggestion that shorts might be acceptable summer office wear set off a public argument in Japan, and much of it turned into a referendum on whether anyone wants to see middle-aged men's bare legs. In this episode, fashion designer Shunsuke Ishikawa, who runs MARKAWARE, and host Eddie try to take the debate back from sociology and treat it as a clothing question. Ishikawa's position is that shorts were originally a gentleman's garment and that Tokyo's heat gives men every reason to wear them. He then gives practical rules and three sample outfits, and ends by admitting that his own legs are a problem.

11 min read

A debate that looked unwinnable

Eddie opens by saying the reaction to the proposal, associated with Governor Koike, was "frustrating." In their view middle-aged men were losing the argument badly. They had recently bought a pair of MARKAWARE shorts to wear this year and now felt they would have to throw them out unworn. Ishikawa talks them out of it: discarding the shorts and buying long trousers would mean paying twice.

Ishikawa frames the stakes jokingly. He puts the number of middle-aged men in Japan at 35.5 million and says that if the video could answer their worries, it could in theory reach that many views. The joke gives the episode its title.

Two separate questions

Ishikawa says he hasn't followed the deeper discussion closely. From what he has seen, though, the conversation has drifted toward something like sexism or lookism, with an attitude that discriminating against middle-aged men is fine because they are supposedly the socially powerful. He disputes that and insists middle-aged men are "totally the socially weak." He then sets that argument aside to focus on fashion.

He sees two issues. The first is whether shorts count as acceptable office casual. He says this comes down to each company's rules, and practice already varies. He notes that the governor originally spoke loosely, more in the spirit of "wouldn't it be fine?" than announcing a rule, and he thinks keeping that relaxed tone and letting the practice settle in naturally is a good approach. By his account Tokyo has already moved ahead of national standards by allowing T-shirts and sneakers, and shorts fit into that same direction. He describes the governor as someone who seems to care about fashion. The second issue is the "we don't want to see middle-aged men's legs" objection, and that is the one his styling advice addresses.

Shorts started as upper-class dress

Ishikawa's historical argument begins in the 17th and 18th centuries. He asks Eddie to picture a prince in an illustration: pumpkin breeches or close-fitting culottes worn with tights. According to Ishikawa, knee breeches worn with silk tights were the standard dress of the bourgeoisie and the gentleman's look. People of standing wore short trousers.

In his telling, long trousers came from the French Revolution. The sans-culottes were literally "those without culottes," and their long trousers were workwear. He compares this to jeans, which began as miners' clothing and later became a symbol of youthful rebellion. As the upper classes adopted long trousers too, the culture shifted to them. He names George Bryan "Beau" Brummell as a key figure in England. Ishikawa says Brummell wasn't especially upper-class by origin and was what we'd now call a party person, and that he established the fashion for long trousers and dark black evening dress. Ishikawa adds that Brummell's statue on London's Jermyn Street, known for its shoe shops, looked defaced around the eyes when he visited last year.

How shorts came back

Ishikawa traces the return of shorts through three routes.

The first is military. Around World War I, in the early 20th century, British troops stationed in Bermuda adopted shorts as part of their uniform because of the heat, and he says this is why shorts are still called "Bermudas." Later, around World War II, even banks there adopted shorts as uniforms, and the practice then spread to other hot regions.

The second is sport. Golf, hunting, and horse riding used three-quarter-length trousers worn with socks. Tennis at Wimbledon was originally played in long trousers. Ishikawa says a player first appeared in shorts in the early 1930s, around 1933, and drew criticism that men shouldn't show their legs and that it looked childish, which he points out is the same criticism heard today. By his account, by the 1940s every Wimbledon winner wore shorts. Sport, he says, was where shorts first became accepted.

The third, and in his view the biggest, is 1950s Ivy style. East Coast Ivy League students wore Bermuda shorts because they looked good, the style spread to Europe, and Japan was strongly influenced by it as well.

He then makes the point the argument has been building to. He looked up Bermuda's temperature and found that the maximum is only a little over 30°C, while Tokyo summers approach 40°C. If shorts made sense in Bermuda, he asks, why not in Japan?

The "sans-pantalon" revolution

From there Ishikawa leans into the joke. Since the revolutionaries of 1789 were sans-culottes, today's middle-aged men should become sans-pantalon, without long trousers, and demand the right to wear shorts. He also calls it a "shin-hair revolution." Eddie says they don't want to join that demonstration. Ishikawa nominates Eddie to lead the 35.5 million anyway: wear shorts and T-shirts to work, live in shorts all summer, and declare "it's hot!"

Rules: length and footwear

Before the outfits, Ishikawa sets out a few rules he recommends following.

Length. The traditional rule for proper shorts is knee-length to 5 cm above the knee. Longer shorts that fall below the knee toward the shin are common, but he suggests leaving them to skaters and young, slim men. Mode-brand shorts, which he says he loves, should be left to fashion enthusiasts, because they only look good on certain people. Middle-aged men should avoid both.

Footwear for business. Wear socks. Shorts with flip-flops may be acceptable at IT firms and at his own fashion company, but he doesn't think society is ready for employees in shorts and flip-flops. The priority is to win the right to shorts first. For now he recommends socks with leather sandals, leather shoes, or clean-looking sneakers.

Three outfits

Staff member Yamada, who is in his forties, models the looks. Ishikawa calls him a "comrade in the revolution" and says he would model himself if not for a problem he explains later.

1. Office-ready hemp shorts. MARKAWARE hemp shorts with a white shirt give a clean look that Ishikawa thinks could work in an office. He adds white socks and either loafers or Gurkha sandals, a sandal close to a shoe.

2. Gurkha shorts in black and brown. Ishikawa says you can't talk about men's shorts without Gurkha shorts, and he uses a brown herringbone pair from Nomàt. He tucks the top in and revisits the black-and-brown combination the channel once called "forbidden," using only those two colors. His key tip is to match the socks to the shorts, here with brown socks, which he calls chic. He also adds a caveat: however much they are warriors of the revolution, men should still show some freshness and consideration for the people around them.

3. Sporty Patagonia Baggies. For a sportier option he picks the classic Patagonia Men's Baggies in the 5-inch length, which he prefers because it stays above the knee. Since they are casual, he pairs them with a ramie knit instead of a T-shirt and drapes a cardigan over it. The result keeps its sporty feel but looks more refined. Where casual dress is allowed, Birkenstock-type sandals or clean sneakers work.

He explains the idea behind all three. The recent debate carried a sense that middle-aged men in shorts look grubby, so the outfits are designed not to read as resortwear and to remove that impression. Men can also mix in items they already use for business casual. For errands or outings with children, anything relaxed is fine, but he thinks going too outdoorsy in town looks a little off at the moment.

Ishikawa's personal problem

Eddie points out that Ishikawa wears shorts constantly at home and on convenience-store runs. Ishikawa confirms it. He owns about four pairs of Baggies, including a limited-edition yellow pair, and treats them as swim trunks you can wear around town.

Some years ago, though, a very famous senior figure in the industry saw an Instagram photo of him in shorts and told him not to wear them. Ishikawa took it as an industry-level ban and agreed. Two years ago the channel filmed a shorts episode that never aired, because publication would have slipped to September, which was too late in the season. Since the senior's complaint was essentially that his shin hair was unsightly, Ishikawa's response was laser hair removal, starting with his legs. That is the origin of the hair removal he has mentioned in other videos. Even so, he says he is still torn about whether to wear shorts.

Then he reveals that he is wearing shorts today and stands up, his first shorts look on YouTube. The shin hair is gone, but his legs are very pale, like a child's legs. He worries he could now be criticized for having gross white legs instead, so he wore socks. He adds that he has gained a little weight and that he has some pigmentation from years of wearing skinny denim every day during Hedi Slimane's heyday. For these reasons he says he can't carry the revolution's flag himself and asks Eddie to do it.

When Eddie suggests a tanning salon, Ishikawa refuses to start another cycle. He describes the one he has just escaped: he was getting laser hair removal while taking medication for hair loss after long COVID, and the medication kept fine hair growing back. A colleague, Hayao, named it the "Demon Slayer: Hair-Removal Infinite Hell Arc." Ishikawa has stopped the medication, and the leg hair has stopped returning, though he now worries about losing volume on his head. He doesn't want to add a new loop of tanning and spot removal.

Where it ends

Eddie admits they have lost the thread. Until Ishikawa stood up, they thought the revolution was already won. The episode closes with a slogan instead of a firm verdict: liberty for middle-aged men, a shin-hair revolution, sans-pantalon. Eddie also brings up the channel's earlier "middle-aged-man hoodie problem." Ishikawa insists he solved it the moment he heard about it and offers to explain his solution in a future video if viewers ask for it in the comments.