Why the Tote Bag Is the Definitive Choice for Men: A Budget-by-Budget Guide from ¥10,000 to ¥1,000,000
石川俊介の〇〇〇For years, the default luggage of adult menswear has been dominated by utility: technical backpacks strapped over suits, nylon body bags slung diagonally across the chest, and featherweight outdoor sacoches dangling from the shoulder. Yet menswear is undergoing a pronounced aesthetic shift. As the pervasive dominance of technical sportswear recedes and fashion pivots toward classic tailoring, structured coats, and refined silhouettes, the accessories that once seemed modern are beginning to look out of place.
Fashion designer Shunsuke Ishikawa argues that adult men have arrived at a juncture where their bags must evolve alongside their clothing. The dilemma of finding a bag that is neither excessively utilitarian nor an impractical micro-accessory has a clear resolution: the tote bag. Unlike backpacks that crush jacket shoulders or crossbody straps that bisect a clean tailored drape, a well-chosen tote accommodates daily work essentials—such as laptops, grooming goods, tech accessories, and daily necessities—while harmonizing with a classic wardrobe. Tracing the form from its utilitarian mid-century American origins to modern luxury leathercraft, Ishikawa outlines why the tote has become essential, how popular utility bags became dated, and which specific models stand out across nine distinct price brackets.
The Mechanics of Trend Exhaustion: The "Mall Guy," Body Bags, and the End of Crossbody Utility
To understand the sudden urgency around tote bags, one must examine why previous menswear staples are losing favor. Ishikawa references a widely discussed viral post from early summer depicting a typical casual outfit worn by middle-aged men at suburban shopping malls. While commenters criticized the look, the clothes themselves were completely ordinary, clean-cut garments. The real aesthetic failure lay in two specific items: generic tech-story sneakers and a body bag worn tightly across the chest.
The body bag’s descent into a dated trope follows a classic cycle of over-saturation:
- The Utilitarian Origin: The form originated as the outdoor waist pouch in the 1960s and 1970s, designed strictly for mountaineers and skiers needing hands-free access to gear.
- The Practical Adoption: During Japan's pre-Bubble overseas travel boom, middle-aged tourists universally adopted waist pouches around their waists as anti-theft security measures, giving the item an unglamorous, practical association.
- The Street Reinterpretation: In the late 1980s, youth culture began slinging waist pouches diagonally across the torso. Manufacturers took note, eventually designing bags specifically intended for crossbody wear.
- The Luxury Climax and Decline: By the 2000s, high-fashion houses released luxury body bags, cementing them as a mass trend. However, an ultra-niche utility item that balloons into mass ubiquity inevitably becomes dated once the surrounding fashion context changes.
Ishikawa identifies two other bag styles currently entering this same stage of aesthetic fatigue:
- The Boxy 3-Way Nylon Backpack: Popularized by lines like The North Face Shuttle series, these rectangular bags are undeniably rational for carrying flat laptops and documents. However, their ubiquity—particularly among Japanese businessmen traveling abroad—has shifted them from modern office utility into an overexposed corporate uniform.
- The Outdoor Sacoche: While highly functional for cycling, music festivals, or travel, the ultralight nylon pouch held against the chest by a thin cord clashes with the structured lines of classic tailored overcoats and trousers.
As fashion moves away from relaxed streetwear cinched together by nylon webbing, carrying bags by hand or on the shoulder restores balance to the male silhouette.
The Everyday Foundations: ¥10,000 to ¥30,000
The entry tier demonstrates that enduring design and high functional value do not require luxury-level spending.
¥10,000 Budget (¥8,000–¥17,999): L.L.Bean Zip-Top Boat and Tote with Pocket
- Price: ¥15,400
The logical starting point for any tote discussion is the design that established the category. The word tote is an archaic English term meaning "to haul heavy loads." In 1944, Maine-based outfitter L.L.Bean introduced "Bean's Ice Carrier." Long before home electric refrigerators were standard in rural New England, households relied on iceboxes, and men used this ultra-heavy canvas bag—originally tested to hold up to 500 pounds (227 kilograms)—to haul blocks of harvested ice from cars into houses. In 1955, L.L.Bean rebranded the design as the "Boat and Tote," turning it into a lasting symbol of traditional East Coast outdoor culture.
The modern Zip-Top version updates the archival open-mouth design with a secure zippered closure for commuting and travel theft prevention. It also incorporates an exterior slip pocket sized for a smartphone—an essential convenience when slung over the shoulder. Built from heavy-duty cotton canvas, it remains one of the most cost-effective, durable casual bags available.
¥20,000 Budget (¥18,000–¥26,999): P.i.d 2WAY Tote Bag PAR201
- Price: ¥23,100
At a price point normally dominated by nylon sports bags, this tote from P.i.d’s "Altare" series offers a structured cowhide build. The leather features a heavy resin finish, yielding a firm, high-gloss surface. While it lacks the supple drape of aniline-dyed hides, Ishikawa compares its practical utility to Haruta leather school loafers: tough, resilient against light rain, and requiring minimal maintenance.
The design utilizes a four-panel pieced face reminiscent of enlarged intrecciato weaving. This construction is highly rational; cutting hides into smaller panels drastically improves material yield, allowing real leather to be sold at this price point. Functionally, the bag incorporates dual handle lengths. The shorter hand-carry straps can be tucked completely inside dedicated magnetic-snap pockets when using the longer shoulder strap. Finished with an internal zip partition and an included leather key clochette, it offers a remarkably refined entry point into leather business totes.
¥30,000 Budget (¥27,000–¥39,999): CHACOLI FRAME TOTE 04
- Price: ¥29,700
Tokyo-based CHACOLI approaches canvas totes not through generic mass utility, but by collaborating with various professionals to develop uncompromising structural forms. The Frame Tote series uses a dense, heavily starched Japanese cotton canvas (hanpu) supported by two internal structural wire frames. This architectural skeleton ensures the bag remains rigidly upright even when empty.
The Model 04 features a vertical silhouette, doubled webbing handles, and a divided interior compartment that keeps a laptop separate from notebooks and water bottles. While available in an off-white that lends a soft, architectural impression, the black version is particularly suited to everyday wear (and frequently sells out). Ishikawa notes only one design drawback: the smooth leather wrap that gathers the handles can slip off smooth overcoats when carried on the shoulder.
Refined Utility and Personalization: ¥50,000 to ¥100,000
In the mid-tier, bags transition from pure utility into distinctive fabrications and sophisticated proportions.
¥50,000 Budget (¥40,000–¥79,999): ALEX MILL The Perfect Weekday Tote
- Price: ¥40,200
Launched in New York in 2012 by Alex Drexler—whose father, Mickey Drexler, served as CEO of both Gap and J.Crew—Alex Mill produces garments and goods rooted in classic American utility. The Perfect Weekday Tote uses a washed, broken-in cotton canvas that feels rugged without excessive weight.
The bag’s primary innovation lies in its transformable volume:
- Compact Mode: Engaging interior snap buttons folds the wide side gussets inward, transforming the silhouette into a crisp, square briefcase shape.
- Expanded Mode: Unsnapped, the bag expands into a high-capacity hauler with ample room for laptops, garments, and gym wear.
The exterior features deep pockets with secondary zip compartments on both sides. Both the short hand-carry and long shoulder handles fold flat against the body or tuck inside when not in use. Additionally, the brand offers an archival-style stenciling service for roughly ¥10,000 (with a 2- to 3-week lead time), hand-painting up to three initials onto the canvas in a manner reminiscent of vintage luggage and heritage makers like Goyard.
(Bonus Reference: Bags In Progress Carry-All Beach Bag, ~$390. Ishikawa highlights this croco-embossed vegan leather tote as one of his most frequently used personal utility bags due to its oversized external organizational pockets.)
¥100,000 Budget (¥80,000–¥179,999): LE TANNEUR Louise Small Tote Bag in Grained Leather
- Price: ¥126,600
Founded in France in 1898, Le Tanneur represents historic European leather craftsmanship. The Louise Small Tote is crafted from thick, full-bodied grained leather that maintains its structure without rigid internal framing. It comes with a top zipper, an included leather accessory pouch, and shoulder straps scaled for everyday movement.
The bag’s dimensions precisely mirror a 13-inch MacBook Air, making it one of the most compact leather totes capable of serving as a functional digital workstation bag.
Ishikawa uses this piece to address the misconception that leather totes look overly feminine on men. Drawing parallels to the Phoebe Philo era at Céline—when fashion insiders widely adopted the two-tone leather Horizontale Cabas—he argues that introducing a slightly refined, feminine-leaning tote provides a sophisticated contrast to masculine tailoring.
The High End: Architectural Canvas and Luxury Craft (¥200,000 to ¥1,000,000)
At the upper price boundaries, design shifts toward bespoke hardware, elite materials, and an ethos of lifelong wear.
¥200,000 Budget (¥180,000–¥269,999): SAGAN VIENNA Reins Tote Bag Canvas XL
- Price: ¥183,960
Designed in Vienna and manufactured in Europe, SAGAN Vienna merges clean geometric design with traditional leatherworking techniques. The Reins Tote Canvas XL pairs a dense black exterior canvas with a contrasting duck-brown cotton interior. The rim, base, and double-stitched carry handles are reinforced in thick, smooth leather.
Its defining detail is a braided leather harness strap running across the top opening. Looping the strap through the closure leaves a small gap configured directly above an internal slip pocket, allowing quick retrieval of a smartphone without unfastening the bag. The opposing side features an oversized interior pouch and a zippered pocket, delivering functional organization wrapped in an understated aesthetic.
¥300,000 Budget: THE ROW XL Park Tote
- Price: ¥394,000
The Row represents the pinnacle of contemporary luxury minimalism. The XL Park Tote eschews exterior branding in favor of material presence: it is crafted from exceptionally thick, springy, full-grain leather. While the leather possesses enough structure to stand when packed, it collapses into an organic slouch when carried.
The bag includes a matching detached leather pouch. Ishikawa notes two caveats for prospective buyers: the substantial thickness of the hide makes the bag inherently heavy, and the handle straps are threaded directly through punched holes in the body leather. While durable in normal use, excessively heavy loads over many years could risk stretching or distorting the leather at the contact points.
¥500,000 Budget (¥400,000–¥799,999)
1. GOYARD Anjou Mini (approx. ¥420,000)
A fully reversible tote featuring Goyard's signature hand-screened coated canvas on one side and smooth, pliable calf leather on the reverse. Ishikawa adopted this micro-tote specifically to replace the functional scale of the sacoche. It holds two smartphones, small wallets, and digital charging accessories without adding bulk.
The small matching leather retainer loop—intended to snap the tote’s open top together—tends to pop open under tension. Ishikawa repurposes it as an impromptu money and card clip inside the bag, allowing him to carry payment essentials without an independent wallet.
2. BOTTEGA VENETA Small Intrecciato Zipper Tote Bag (¥671,000)
Crafted using Bottega Veneta’s signature hand-woven intrecciato leather, this tote combines heritage artisan construction with practical modern design. It features a full double-zipper top closure that unfolds wide for easy packing, an exterior slip pocket tailored for mobile devices, and proportioned handles that transition between handheld carry and shoulder use.
¥1,000,000 Budget: THE ROW Marlo
- Price: ¥883,000
At the apex of luxury luggage, Ishikawa presents The Row's Marlo tote. While evaluating options in this tier, he debated acquiring a classic Hermès model, but chose to recommit to thoroughly breaking in the Marlo.
Ishikawa cites Jane Birkin’s approach to her namesake Hermès bag—covering it in travel stickers, cramming it full, and carrying it until the leather was completely soft and scuffed—as the ultimate expression of luxury style. An expensive leather tote should not be preserved as a pristine museum object; its aesthetic value peaks when it is used daily, absorbing scratches, rain, and softening with age.
Returning to the Handheld Object
The evolution of menswear suggests a return to deliberate, handheld accessories. Just as womenswear has long embraced structured handheld bags, clutches, and classic top-handle silhouettes, men are stepping away from utilitarian harnesses that strap possessions to the body.
For daily commuting, travel, and professional life, the tote bag occupies the unique intersection of capacity, structural simplicity, and stylistic neutrality. Whether through an archival ¥15,400 L.L.Bean ice hauler or an unbranded six-figure calfskin tote, embracing the handheld tote aligns an adult wardrobe with the enduring principles of modern tailoring.
Still using a backpack? Or wearing a shoulder bag slung crossbody? Isn't it about time to move on? One of the big dilemmas for men — "there's no bag I actually want" — let's settle it once and for all. With the trend moving from sportswear toward more classic dressing in 2026, your sense of the trend shows in your bag. So what bag should we be carrying now? The answer: the tote bag. A fashion designer picks the bags to own right now — from a ¥10,000 budget on up, ten bags in total, by budget.
Hello everyone, I'm fashion designer Shunsuke Ishikawa. — Yes! Ishikawa-san, quite a lineup today. — Quite a lineup, right? You can already tell. Everyone, do you somehow sense that the flow of fashion has been changing? — The flow of fashion? Well, at the end of last year you did that big trend forecast, didn't you? — Ah, for 2026. — Right, and things do feel different. Come to think of it, it's like what you were saying — wanting to wear tailoring, that slightly more classic direction? — Exactly, exactly. Do you feel it? Or not? — I feel it. — Doesn't feel like much changed? But the world really is changing — womenswear is leading the way, and menswear is chasing right after it. The flow of fashion has genuinely shifted.
Now, we did a bag special once before, and in it we covered backpacks and all kinds of bags. But backpacks — and body bags too — crossbody bags in general... don't you feel it's about time to retire them? No? — Honestly, I don't know... I'm literally wearing one crossbody right now. — Fair, fair, fair. So now that it feels like time to move on from all that, my proposal today is: as fashion shifts, shouldn't your bag shift along with it? That's what I want to properly lay out. So then — which bag? Well, the answer can only be the tote. One choice, and I'm going all in on that one choice this time.
Sure, heading out with just a small bag holding your wallet, phone, and keys is an option, but realistically, if you work, you have to carry a laptop, and the things you carry keep multiplying. And they increase with age, too — you start carrying supplements, grooming-type things... So you need a bag with real capacity that also suits today's fashion — and that leaves only the tote. Which is why today I'm introducing tote bags. I was curious what everyone online thinks, and sure enough, plenty of people say backpacks and crossbody bags read childish and just don't work anymore — it's the tote now. But there's also criticism of totes: "isn't it a bit gay?" — that kind of comment. Considering the tote's origins, I'd say that's simply mistaken — that's one point. And the other: how men incorporate bags once seen as women's items into fashion is exactly the kind of thing worth thinking about in this day and age. So I'd like to touch on that today as well. Shall we dive right in? — Yes, please.
This time we're going by budget again. First, the ¥10,000 budget — which on this channel means ¥8,000 to ¥17,999. So what does this price range get you? What can you buy on this budget? Roughly, it's where you can get the more affordable cotton canvas or nylon bags from sports and outdoor brands. And within that range, let's start from the very origin of the tote, shall we? Here it is — the origin: the L.L.Bean Zip-Top Boat and Tote with Pocket, ¥15,400. This one has a zip top, but it's essentially the Boat and Tote — it says "Boat and Tote" right here. The tote bag L.L.Bean created first — this is the original tote.
So first, what does "tote" even mean? It's an old English word meaning to carry something heavy. The tote bag as we picture it today is the one L.L.Bean made first. L.L.Bean created it in 1944 as "Bean's Ice Carrier" — a bag for carrying ice. Today, "carrying ice" sounds baffling, but back then, refrigerators ran on ice, not electricity. In 1944 — the tail end of the war — electric refrigerators still weren't widespread, especially in Maine, which is fairly rural, so iceboxes were still common. It was for hauling that ice from the car into the house. And in catalogs from the time, next to a page showing a man in workwear — ski pants, actually — cutting ice, there's this bag. It was literally for loading up and carrying ice. So it had to bear heavy loads: it was originally built to withstand 500 pounds — 227 kilograms. That was this bag, first sold under the name "Ice Carrier." Then in 1955, L.L.Bean gave the same bag an image change and sold it under its current name: the Boat and Tote. It became a symbol of the outdoors in New England — America's oldest states.
I love New England. I've mentioned I spent a year in Boston as a student, and back then I'd drive up to New Hampshire and Maine all the time — often visiting the L.L.Bean flagship. It was like a sacred site for the outdoors. And naturally, I used tote bags back then. So that's the story. Originally it just opened wide, nothing but space inside; this version adds a zipper — good for theft prevention, too. And for modern use, when you sling it on your shoulder, you really want at least one spot for your phone, so having a pocket here makes it that much more convenient. It has a very casual feel — perfect for weekend outings — a genuinely handy bag you can get in the ¥10,000 range. The canvas is sturdy, too — I think it's a great bag.
Next, the ¥20,000 budget: ¥18,000 to ¥26,999. This range is also mostly outdoor and sports-brand bags, I'd say — a budget where slightly more technical bags come into reach. But this time: a leather tote you can buy on a ¥20,000 budget that genuinely works for fashion. A surprising price — here we go: the P.i.d 2WAY Tote Bag PAR201, ¥23,100. Hard to believe, right? It's from a maker called P.i.d — from their "Altare" series line, apparently. The leather's finish is heavily set with resin, but it is proper cowhide — quite a glossy cowhide. It may look softer than it is; it's actually fairly firm, stiff leather — which I think comes from that generous resin coating. But at this price, the fact that it's real cowhide is already more than enough, I'd say.
And on top of that, the design is pretty good, right? This four-panel construction is like a certain BV house's weave blown up bigger. And it's actually a very rational approach: leather comes from hides shaped like the animal, so there are yield constraints. The smaller you can make each panel, the more efficiently you use the hide. So paneled construction is more efficient — and here they've elevated that into genuine design. A very, very good bag, I think. And as the name says, it's a 2WAY tote. So where's the second way? The strap comes in two lengths. There's this one — and actually, inside there's a pocket designed so you can stow the strap in it. See? You tuck this one into the pocket, which closes with a magnetic snap. Then pull the other one out like this and — hold on, doing this without looking is tricky — snap it in, and it becomes a shoulder tote. The pocket of course still works as a pocket — it's deep, so you can keep things in it, too. Plus, the center closes with a magnet, and there's a zipper inside as well. It's genuinely well made and extremely practical.
— And this one's leather too, right? — It's leather. And on top of that, it even comes with a clochette — a key clochette. A nice accent as well. All of that at this price — a genuinely surprising bag. Pretty incredible, I think. High-end leather bags these days often run into the hundreds of thousands of yen, so being able to buy this for ¥23,100 — especially for younger guys — is exactly why I wanted to introduce it.
Next, the ¥30,000 budget: bags from ¥27,000 to ¥39,999. At this level, nylon bags from imported sports brands come into reach, too. But here I'm deliberately going with a Japanese-made canvas tote — CHACOLI, by now the definitive Japanese canvas tote brand. The FRAME TOTE — this is the 04 in white, ¥29,700. Their philosophy isn't generic ease of use for the many, but engaging with one specific situation or environment — at times working with people from all sorts of professions — to seek out forms with real value. They offer a wide range of sizes; this is the vertical version of the tote. The canvas itself is extremely sturdy — I wonder what weight of hanpu canvas it is — with a crisp, starched, stiff hand. And the defining feature: there are frames inside. Two frames are built in, so it truly holds its shape. The handles use seriously thick webbing — doubled up — so it stands firmly on its own.
The other big feature is the divided interior: a large compartment for a laptop, plus space for everything else. It comes in white and black — white gives a softer, warmer impression, so if that's your image, go white; but basically I'd say black. Though black is so popular it's genuinely hard to get hold of. A very solid, excellent bag, I think. The one flaw: the leather grip that fastens the handles together is quite slippery — sling it on your shoulder and it slides right off. — I see. — If they'd just make that one part less slippery, it would be even easier to use. It's a near-perfect bag, so maybe I shouldn't nitpick — but there it is.
Next up, the ¥50,000 budget: ¥40,000 to ¥79,999 — a wide band, but here let me introduce an interesting American brand: ALEX MILL, The Perfect Weekday Tote, ¥40,200 — call it the low end of the ¥50,000 budget. It's a fashion brand launched in New York in 2012 by a man named Alex Drexler. His father was the former CEO of GAP and J.Crew, and he was involved in the launch — so the brand inherits that lineage, so to speak. — Wait — did the shape just change while I was talking? — It changed, right? I quietly did this: there are snap buttons here, and snapped shut it's a perfectly square bag. Open the snaps and, since the side gussets are really wide, it opens right up and works as a much bigger bag. There's a pocket with a zip pocket, and this side is also a pocket with its own zip pocket — doubled-up pockets on both sides.
The canvas is really sturdy, and it's been washed, so it has a slightly relaxed, broken-in feel — rugged, but not heavy. It comes with two sets of handles, and both fold flat. With bags like this that stand up, the long handles often poke into you when you carry it by the short ones — but these fold right down, and when you're not using the long ones, you can just stow them inside. So it genuinely works two ways. One more great thing: it takes two or three weeks and costs a bit over ¥10,000, but you can get stenciling — like what Goyard offers. You know, where they paint initials of your choice on the bag? They'll do about three letters. — Oh, nice. — Adding a stencil gives it playfulness and a more premium feel — enough to make you think: if it's a canvas tote, do you even need a high brand? I'm extremely fond of this bag. And at around ¥40,000, you can order it online and they ship straight to Japan. That was the ALEX MILL The Perfect Weekday Tote. Fits a laptop easily — plenty of room.
Now — I said ten bags, and counting this one would make eleven, so consider it a bonus mention. One of the bags I use most: this BAGS IN PROGRESS Carry-All Beach Bag in black croco vegan leather, about $390 — a bit pricier than the last one, but I use it constantly. It's a tote loaded with big pockets and extremely handy — so I wanted to at least mention it.
Next, the ¥100,000 budget — getting a little pricier now: roughly ¥80,000 to ¥179,999. At this level, leather totes start entering the picture. For domestic brands too, this is a common budget for leather bags, I'd say. And here, let me slip in a slightly ladies'-leaning bag. Le Tanneur — is that how you read it? — a French brand, apparently with quite a history. The small tote bag in grained leather, ¥126,600. And the leather is genuinely lovely — plump and springy, with real thickness — and although it's a single layer, it stands on its own and the handles stay upright. All that quality, with a slightly feminine feel. What's great about this bag: a 13-inch MacBook Air fits exactly — a perfect fit. In that sense, it may be the smallest bag that carries a MacBook — book-sized, really. Features-wise, it has a zipper and comes with a matching pouch in the same leather, so you can drop the essentials into the pouch and toss everything else straight in. It comes with a strap long enough to wear fully on the shoulder, so it's just right for walking around with a smallish tote like this.
Now, back to that earlier point about leather bags reading feminine — that "gay" comment — I actually think a slightly ladies'-leaning tote on a man looks charming. Céline, in the Phoebe Philo era, had a bag called the Horizontale Cabas — a thin leather tote, color-blocked partway down — and I used it constantly. Quite a few men in the fashion industry carried it, too. Mine was olive and beige, I believe. It was very much that sensibility: a ladies'-leaning tote on a man simply looks charming. That touch — adding a slightly feminine item when polishing a look — is genuinely one route to sophistication, I think. So I liked this bag and bought it. At just over ¥100,000, it's a good price for a leather tote — a bag I recommend.
— Watching all these, I noticed: "not over-designed" seems pretty important. — Ah, right. — They're all basically simple. — And that's better. Basically, yes. I think it's better to carry a bag that isn't overloaded with design — just simple and high quality. The tote is a staple, after all, so it comes down to how well you execute a true staple — and keeping the clever touches to just a hint of extra usability is the better place to land, I think. — I see. — And on that note: bags that chase pure utility too hard are a problem, too, right? Which brings me to the biggest bag story that blew up online recently — a little while back. The "mall guy" discourse — remember that? We're midway through the product intros, but I wanted to talk about this, so bear with me.
Around early June, a post went viral: "go to a mall out in the countryside and you'll see guys dressed like this — I truly hate it." Dunking on middle-aged guys goes viral now and then, right? And all sorts of people piled on. But the outfit was completely normal — clean-cut, even. Apparently the image was AI-generated? He looked like a perfectly pleasant, nice-dad type — the kind with a three-to-five-year-old at home. The clothes themselves weren't really the problem. I think there were two actual problems. First: the sneakers. He was wearing Allbirds-type sneakers, and honestly, I never understood what was supposed to be good about Allbirds. Can I be blunt? They're something any country in Asia could produce, wrapped in Silicon Valley-style fundraising and value-added storytelling — hype it up and sell it. That's all I could ever see in it, and I genuinely wondered what was so great. And you know what they're doing now? The company pivoted — changed direction — and is now an AI infrastructure company. — Wow. — Basically, it's money they're interested in, right? That's the vibe. So the sneakers were problem one.
The other was the body bag worn front and center. So what is a body bag? Its roots are the waist pouch. Waist pouches have existed forever, but they really spread during the outdoor boom of the 1960s and '70s, as bags for climbers and skiers. In Japan, the biggest catalyst is said to be the overseas-travel boom heading into the Bubble era — for security, everyone, middle-aged men included, started wearing waist pouches. So even back then, the waist pouch had a middle-aged image. Then younger people picked it up — around the end of the 1980s, my generation started wearing them crossbody. We were slinging bags designed as waist pouches across the body, and then someone thought: why not just design them as crossbody bags from the start? That's when it really took off — that became the body bag as we know it. From the 2000s on, high brands released them too, and it became a full boom. But remember: it was originally an ultra-niche bag. A niche bag that boomed far too big — and things like that, once time passes, end up looking painfully dated. So the body bag has — to put it very harshly — become a symbol of the unfashionable, which is why that viral post landed the way it did. That's something we have to watch carefully. I truly hate declaring that something is "over," so I don't want to — but because it can't help looking that way now, "let's give it a rest for a while" is a call that inevitably comes up.
So the question becomes: what's the next body bag? — Right. — I'd say there are two. First: the boxy backpack — the 3-way-bag-on-your-back look. The North Face was probably first, with the Shuttle series, which sold like crazy — and then every maker released nylon, 3-way-style boxy backpacks. Go abroad, and the people wearing boxy backpacks are mostly Japanese businessmen. And look — the boxy backpack is supremely rational: laptops are rectangular, documents are rectangular. It makes perfect sense. But that too is, in the end, a case of something niche going viral, isn't it? So there's a high chance it reads that way now. Isn't it about time to give it a rest? — Uh-oh. I brought one today. — That's number one.
On to number two: the sacoche. I used them plenty myself. "You were using one until, like, yesterday!" — I can hear you saying it. But as dressing turns more classic, the crossbody strap itself starts to feel like a burden, doesn't it? — True, actually. — The sacoche simply got too big. It's another ultra-niche bag — same as the body bag, right? Especially the outdoor-style ones worn right here — that look has now entered the era where it reads exactly that way, I'd say. So shall we give this one a rest for a while, too? Of course, for travel it's supremely handy, and for outdoor sports it's genuinely useful — by all means, use it hard there. But wearing one around town feels off now. When sportswear-leaning styles were in, taking something relaxed — something roomy and Lemaire-esque — and cinching it with a crossbody strap was an interesting move, I think. But it feels like even that moment has passed, so let's give it a rest for now. That's my take.
On to the second half — the ¥200,000 budget: ¥180,000 to ¥269,999. At this level, imported brands really come into play. The first bag I want to introduce is from a brand I've had my eye on for a while: SAGAN Vienna. The Reins Tote Bag Canvas XL in black — ¥183,960. When we did the previous bag episode, I got quite a few comments — and I'd actually been wanting to feature this brand myself. SAGAN Vienna — the one I'd meant to introduce back then was the Father Book Tote in black leather: a vertical tote with a paperback-book pocket attached. I think two or three viewers commented asking, "what about that bag?" It stayed on my mind, but I kept missing my chance — and now it's nowhere to be found. Then, from the same brand, another tote caught my eye, and I bought it — this big tote.
The body is canvas, and the mouth, handles, and base are finished in leather, double-stitched, like this. That's the construction. And the interior pockets are well thought out, too — there's a leather pocket right at the mouth. What's clever about it: this bag has the brand's signature strap of braided tape, and you thread it through one side to close the top. When it's closed, there's a pocket positioned exactly in the gap — keep your phone in there and you can slide it right out. On the other side, there's a large pocket, plus a zip pocket at the front — practically a pouch. So it's very solidly made. And the inside of the canvas is this natural brown cotton shade — duck-like tones — while the outside is black. Overall, an extremely well-made bag — that's what I love about it. As for the top, I believe there's a magnet — it barely catches, but there is a magnet — so it can be closed. That's the bag. Nice, right? — It's beautiful. Even from a distance, the canvas looks gorgeous — such a tight, even weave. It looks genuinely luxurious. — Right. And with a big brand name attached, this would cost double, I'd say — which makes it still feel like a real value.
Next, let's try the ¥300,000 budget. Around here, bags from the earlier bag special start popping back up — at this level, luxury-brand bags enter the picture. Which brings us to THE ROW XL Park Tote, ¥394,000. When I introduced it last time it was still ¥379,000; now it's ¥394,000 — creeping up steadily. A bag so simple you truly can't tell what brand it is. But what's great about it? It really is a casual tote — it's called the Park Tote, after all — but the leather quality... I love it. Extremely thick and springy. It's stuffed right now, which is why it stands like this; without stuffing, it slumps. But it's not thin, flimsy leather, so the way it slumps when you carry it is genuinely charming — a plush, full-bodied slouch. That's what I love about it.
As I said last time, the handles pass through punched holes, which slightly worries me for strength. So far it's been fine even carrying heavy things, but I suspect the holes could stretch or tear over time, so it's probably best not to haul anything too heavy — that's one point. The other: the leather is so thick that the bag itself is quite heavy. Those are the slight negatives, but I really do love this bag. And it comes with a pouch in the same soft, slouchy leather — that's part of the appeal, too. THE ROW, with a bag at ¥300,000-something — just barely. — THE ROW really is exquisite, isn't it? Minimal, simple, but with just enough to make you want it. — Right.
Next, the ¥500,000 range. At this level, you start wanting the overseas high-brand bags. I'm counting ¥400,000 to ¥799,999 here — that's the ¥500,000 budget. And for it — "you're pulling out something that small for a ¥500,000 budget?" — the Goyard Anjou Mini. Around ¥400,000. You can't know the list price without visiting the store; at Goyard it currently runs about ¥420,000. The outside is their signature coated canvas. "¥400,000 for that bag?" you might think — but the reverse side is leather: it's actually reversible. You know the Saint Louis — canvas on one side, right? This is the version whose other side is leather.
So why this bag? I told you I stopped using sacoches — but I missed that size. This is almost exactly the same size, and about the same weight. Two phones; my wallets — I carry about two — so two wallets go in; plus a few digital gadgets, a mobile battery... it's truly the best size for carrying all of that. And slinging it on lightly adds just a touch of accent to simple clothes, so it's extremely useful. That size, with that refinement — most options in this size end up sporty, so there's really nothing like it. This too, then, is a case of a man adopting a bag women carry — an interesting one to try in exactly that context. A bag I recommend.
Now, this piece — what is it? It's meant to close the mouth, like so. But put things inside and lift the bag, and it pops right open — it doesn't hold at all. It opens instantly and is basically useless, since I pack the bag full. So instead, I turned it into a money clip: do this, and you can pull out bills right away. And since this part is here, just slot your cards in — so you can genuinely go wallet-free with this bag, if you want. That's how I use it. — The size really is cute. — The size is great, this one. The only thing is, it can be quite hard to get hold of. So that's this bag.
Also in the ¥500,000 budget — though it means re-introducing a bag from last time — the Small Intrecciato zipper tote bag, now ¥671,000. When I introduced it before, it was ¥544,500 — it's jumped well over ¥100,000. With inflation, I think prices will keep climbing, so if you want one, buy sooner rather than later. Among luxury brands, it's one I truly trust: Bottega Veneta. It has double zippers, so the whole top opens up. I covered it thoroughly last time, so please watch that episode — but the phone pocket here is beautifully, cleanly made, and it's simply practical and convenient. I'm very fond of it.
Finally: the ¥1,000,000 budget. For this budget, I actually thought about buying one more, even pricier new bag — and decided against it. — Good, good. — So let me re-introduce a bag from last time: THE ROW Marlo. It was ¥850,000; now it's about ¥883,000. Why the Marlo? The other bag I'd considered was an Hermès. Few of their bags work for men, so I thought about buying one of the ones that does — but it costs more than double this. And I realized: before buying that, I need to have thoroughly worn this one in first. A bit of self-reflection there.
Like a well-worn pair of Aldens, or an Hermès Kelly used until it's completely soft and crumpled — that way of using things is just wonderful. And that's originally what Birkin herself did, isn't it? Jane Birkin plastered her Hermès Birkin in stickers, wore it to pieces. That's the cool thing: deliberately using a luxury bag daily, hard — and the bag answering with quality that can take it. That's what makes a luxury bag cool. So until mine reaches that state, no new bags. It's the brand by the Olsen twins — so I bought it thinking, right, let's wear this thing soft. But I haven't had many occasions — not much time abroad lately — so I haven't used it as much as I'd like. It's starting to pick up scratches, though, heading somewhere nice. And per our AD: it also comes with a charm attached.
And with that, we've been through them all — the tote bag special. They're wonderfully easy to use and truly convenient for daily life, so I hope each of you picks one up and uses it hard. Going back to that earlier tangent — so crossbody really can look embarrassing now? Is that the general mood? — It is. — So isn't it about time we let it go? That's how much the flow of fashion has changed. — And then the tote is about all that's left. Carry a tote — or, well, carry an attaché case. — Isn't that one step ahead? — Maybe one step ahead. But that's the point: it comes down to bags you genuinely carry in hand. Think of womenswear — women do exactly that, right? Bags that aren't crossbody: handbags, or for that matter a Birkin — bags you don't even put over the shoulder. Men circling back to that point is entirely conceivable.
— When I ran into you in Roppongi a while back, weren't you carrying three leather bags? — I was. Three. — And one of them was a crossbody, right? — True, true. — No, wait — you had proper crossbody bags, worn not crossbody but stacked two on one shoulder! I couldn't tell what you even were. — Dangerous, right? With three, you're bound to forget one somewhere. — Exactly, exactly. You're not a variety-show AD, loading up both shoulders! — Right — today's takeaway: for grown men, for the foreseeable future, it's tote or nothing. — Wrapped up beautifully.
— I thought it through. — There were some great totes. That ¥23,000 one — — ¥23,100? The earlier one — the P.i.d. — Yes, that one was great. — Incredible, right? ¥23,100! — That's what you'd pay for a sports-brand nylon backpack. And it's cowhide? — Cowhide. The way to think about it: the leather is heavily resin-coated, sure — but essentially, it's the HARUTA of bags. Like HARUTA in leather shoes. So use it hard, without worrying — and with that much resin coating, it should be fine even on rainy days, relatively speaking. As a leather bag you can use that way, it's fantastic. — I never expected leather to show up at that price. — Right? I searched hard for that one. Desperately, desperately. — And you bought all of these?! Seriously — how do you use them all? When? — You can't exactly carry five or six bags at once, obviously — not this many big bags.
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