How Dermaid's Lotion and Cream Have Changed: Odor Fixes, Glycerin Removal, and a Preview of the New "Mild Series"

Dermaid launched in fall 2024. In a video at the time, Kazunosuke introduced it as "the most impressive" product of the year and also named it one of that year's best cosmetics. What Kazunosuke particularly valued was that the combination of three active ingredients, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and D-panthenol, had not yet been approved in Japan, and Dermaid was the first product in Japan to commercialize this combination. The line was also praised for its simple formulation designed with a wide range of skin types in mind and for its affordable price. This spring, the glycerin-free "Triple Active Mist Lotion" was also released, and Kazunosuke reviewed it as well.

Kazunosuke explains the history of the developer, pdc Inc., as follows. It began as the general distribution division of POLA Inc., later became POLA Daily Cosme Co., Ltd., and then changed to its current name. It is now part of the Yamada Bee Farm group. According to Kazunosuke, the company has released many cost-effective cosmetics available at drugstores, including "Pure Natural," which was featured in an earlier video. Dermaid had not done much advertising until now, but the company requested this sponsorship to coincide with the renewal of the lotion and cream that were among the line's first releases, Kazunosuke says.

The renewed versions go on sale September 16. They are already available on the official website, and stores will switch over gradually.

Kazunosuke shares the background behind the renewal as explained by the manufacturer. As the number of users grew thanks to videos and influencer reviews, requests for improvements started coming in. The most common complaint was that the lotion and other products had an unusual smell. Kazunosuke's own video comment sections had also received quite a few remarks to the same effect. Kazunosuke personally did not find it very strong, but apparently some people found it quite bothersome. Kazunosuke speculates that because the products are strictly fragrance-free, odors derived from the raw ingredients may have been easier to notice.

When pdc investigated the cause, it reportedly found that the source of the odor was anhydrous sodium sulfite, which had been added to improve the stability of the active ingredients. Other changes cited include nano-sizing some of the active ingredients to improve penetration, adding moisturizing ingredients such as human-identical ceramides, and revising the moisturizing ingredients in response to many complaints about stickiness.

The changes to the exterior are minor. Comparing the lotion bottles, the line sits higher on the old version and lower on the new one. Kazunosuke says the outer box of the new version looks somewhat more luxurious.

The ingredients of the lotion, "Triple Active Lotion N," were compared side by side between the old and new versions.

What has not changed are the three signature active ingredients. Both versions are quasi-drugs, approved for three effects: whitening, wrinkle improvement, and prevention of rough skin. They also share the same five "free" claims: fragrance-free, colorant-free, alcohol-free, paraben-free, and mineral oil-free. Moisturizing ingredients such as collagen and Geranium robertianum extract are also nearly the same. However, Kazunosuke notes that, conversely, the other ingredients differ considerably, and sees this as a large-scale change that goes beyond fine-tuning details.

Here, Kazunosuke explains the roles of the three active ingredients once again.

Niacinamide is an ingredient that can, on its own, obtain approved efficacy for both whitening and wrinkle improvement. By suppressing the transport of melanin, which causes dark spots, it is recognized as having a whitening effect that prevents spots and freckles. It also reportedly improves wrinkles through actions such as increasing hyaluronic acid within the skin. Tranexamic acid is approved for preventing spots and freckles by suppressing melanin production through inhibiting plasmin, a signaling substance generated in response to UV stimulation. D-panthenol normalizes skin turnover to keep skin healthy and prevent rough skin. Kazunosuke says all three are ingredients that Kazunosuke has long recommended as "must-supplement" ingredients.

The combination of D-panthenol and niacinamide had already been used in serums and other department-store cosmetics. Kazunosuke highly values the fact that a lotion adding tranexamic acid on top of these is now available at great cost performance. Because some of these active ingredients are nano-sized in the new version, they can be expected to absorb into the stratum corneum faster than before.

What Kazunosuke cites as the biggest change in the lotion is the composition of the main ingredients. The top of the old version's full ingredient list was water, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol (isoprene glycol), 1,3-butylene glycol (BG), concentrated glycerin, and 1,2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol). The new version is water, BG, isoprene glycol, and pentylene glycol, with concentrated glycerin removed. Polyglycerin, which was in the old version, is also no longer included.

In Kazunosuke's assessment, the old version contained glycerin and polyglycerin, making it a moisturizing base that tended to have a moist, viscous feel. The new version drops the glycerins and centers on polyhydric alcohols such as BG. This appears to have been adjusted to reduce stickiness and give a fresh, light feel. The manufacturer also describes it as a formula with reduced stickiness.

Kazunosuke thinks it is fair to call it effectively glycerin-free. Even back with the previous product, there were many requests to make it glycerin-free from people who don't get along with glycerin, and the company took on removing glycerin in an effort to meet those requests as much as possible. On the other hand, the manufacturer uses a standard that also counts glycerin-derived compounds, such as glycerin fatty acid esters and glyceryl ricinoleate, as "glycerin-based ingredients." For this reason, the new version is not officially marketed as "glycerin-free." Kazunosuke points out that this is considerably stricter than the general standard. Kazunosuke's position is that glycerin fatty acid esters have completely different properties from glycerin, and that a formula removing only glycerin as a moisturizing ingredient should be allowed to call itself glycerin-free.

According to Kazunosuke, removing glycerin with these three active ingredients is extremely difficult. All three require fairly high concentrations to be effective. Changing the composition of the base that stably holds them is a major overhaul that cannot be done overnight, Kazunosuke says.

Anhydrous sodium sulfite, identified as the cause of the odor, has been completely removed from the new lotion. According to the manufacturer, this has improved the odor considerably. Kazunosuke says that people who disliked the old lotion because of its smell are likely to be able to use the new one.

The emulsifier composition has also changed significantly. The old version used a nonionic surfactant called polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene decyltetradecyl ether. The new version drops it and instead contains glyceryl monoundecylenate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glycerin fatty acid esters, hydrogenated soybean phospholipid, and others. This means it has shifted to a more complex emulsified dispersion combining multiple emulsifiers.

As moisturizing ingredients, three human-identical ceramides have been added: N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl dihydrosphingosine, and hydroxystearyl phytosphingosine. Phytosterol, an ingredient similar to intercellular lipids, is also included. Kazunosuke believes the emulsifiers were combined in order to stably incorporate oil-soluble ingredients such as multiple ceramides, phytosterol, and vitamin E into a lotion. In particular, the combination of hydrogenated soybean phospholipid with ceramides and sterols gave Kazunosuke the sense that the formula may be aiming for emulsified particles or a lamellar structure that mimics intercellular lipids.

Based on this analysis, Kazunosuke concludes that the only things unchanged in the lotion are the active ingredients and the basic concept. The underlying framework has been extensively rebuilt, and it would be no exaggeration to say a new lotion was made from scratch.

"Triple Active Cream N" also keeps the three active ingredients, the three approved effects, and the five "free" claims unchanged.

The base is sugar squalane, that is, squalane derived from sugarcane. According to Kazunosuke, it is a relatively expensive oil, and it forms the core of the formula. Because squalane is a stabilized form of squalene, which is also found in skin's sebum, it blends easily with the skin and is resistant to breakdown. For this reason, it is said to be unlikely to cause breakouts, Kazunosuke explains. The richly moisturizing base is also nearly the same: BG, behenyl alcohol to adjust firmness, the moisturizing ingredient maltitol, methylpolysiloxane (a light-textured silicone), and concentrated glycerin. Since the cream still contains glycerin, it is not effectively glycerin-free. It also contains macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl, an ester that softens the skin and one Kazunosuke recommends.

The changes are as follows. Yuzu ceramide, a ceramide precursor obtained from yuzu seeds, and the human-identical ceramide N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (ceramide NP) have been added, along with phytosterol and hydrogenated soybean phospholipid. Meanwhile, the pseudo-ceramide di(phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate from the old version has been removed. Anhydrous sodium sulfite remains in the cream. It reportedly could not be removed completely, as it is needed to stabilize the active ingredients. However, the manufacturer explains that the amount has been greatly reduced and the odor is no longer noticeable.

Kazunosuke's assessment of the cream is that it is not a major overhaul like the lotion. It is based on the previous formula, with ceramides and hydrogenated lecithin added to support the skin barrier and the odor improved.

The old and new lotions were compared by actually applying them to the skin. Only the new cream was shown, as its feel is said to be nearly unchanged.

Kazunosuke says the old lotion has a relatively light, watery texture, but a distinctive stickiness becomes noticeable once it is worked into the skin. Kazunosuke personally did not mind the smell much, but many people reportedly said it had an unusual odor.

The new version actually feels slightly thick right after application. However, it feels lighter and smoother after being worked in than the old version, and there is hardly any unpleasant stickiness once it has absorbed. Since the stickiness after absorption had been a concern with the old version, Kazunosuke rated this an excellent renewal. Kazunosuke also says it penetrates the stratum corneum well. Despite being a glycerin-free formula, it still leaves a moist, hydrated feel. Kazunosuke notes that the Mist Lotion released in the spring feels more refreshing, so people who find it insufficiently moisturizing would likely be better suited to the new Lotion N.

The cream comes with a built-in spatula. Kazunosuke considers this unusual for a cost-effective cream. Kazunosuke also says creams based mainly on sugar squalane are rare in this price range, and that it provides rich moisture and leaves skin feeling soft.

On suitability for sensitive skin, Kazunosuke sees the various "free" claims as reflecting a design that considers a fairly wide range of skin types. That said, Kazunosuke cautions that because it contains three active ingredients, each at a sufficient concentration, there may be cases where it doesn't suit someone's skin. Kazunosuke advises starting with a small amount to check whether it agrees with your skin.

The manufacturer reportedly does not actively recommend using the lotion and cream together, either. Because they contain abundant active ingredients, the company has apparently been instructed by the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare to label the products so that, when used alongside other quasi-drugs, users should not use multiple products at once but instead try one at a time while monitoring their skin. This is said to apply even to combinations of Dermaid products.

Prices remain unchanged for both. Triple Active Lotion N is 2,200 yen (tax included) for 150 mL, and Triple Active Cream N is 2,200 yen (tax included) for 50 g. In addition to the official online shop, they are available at Sugi Pharmacy, PLAZA, AINZ & TULPE, Hands, AEON, and elsewhere. In-store availability will reportedly begin on or after October 1.

The old and new designs are easy to confuse. The way to tell them apart is whether the "AT seal" on the top says "NEW" in red. The cream can be distinguished the same way.

The 290 mL large-size lotion mentioned in a video around the summer reportedly has the same ingredients as the renewed Lotion N. This was news to Kazunosuke as well, and due to manufacturing timing, the large-size version apparently went on sale a few months earlier than the 150 mL version. It is priced at 4,180 yen (tax included). It isn't especially more cost-effective than the 150 mL version, but because it has a pump, Kazunosuke says it suits people who want to use it over larger areas, such as the body. Personally, Kazunosuke would recommend this lotion more than the cream. That said, Kazunosuke suggests comparing it with the spring Mist Lotion and choosing based on which feel you prefer.

At the end of the video, Kazunosuke introduced a new product announced that day. Dermaid plans to release "Dermaid Mild Line," a new skincare series with three active ingredients, within the year. What was shown was a sample rather than the final product, and the actual product may differ.

Specific ingredients could not yet be disclosed, but the combination of active ingredients was revealed. It carries over niacinamide and tranexamic acid, replacing D-panthenol with heparinoid. Kazunosuke says the D-panthenol in the regular line retains some elements that make it hard to call fully suited to sensitive skin. It has been replaced with heparinoid, which is popular in cosmetics for sensitive skin and helps prevent rough skin by enhancing the skin's moisturizing function. The rest of the formula has reportedly also been adjusted for a milder feel. The release date and price cannot be disclosed yet, and preparations are said to be underway for a release within the year.

Kazunosuke praised the speed with which Dermaid keeps making improvements in response to user requests and its dedication to developing new products, and closed the video by saying that its future developments are worth watching.