unlabel LAB "Super High-Pressure Penetration Essence": Ingredient Analysis and Practicality After a Major Renewal

Of the four products previously offered, the Placenta Essence (blue) and the Ceramide Essence (green) have effectively been dropped from the lineup and replaced by new niacinamide and azelaic acid derivative formulations. The two products containing a vitamin C derivative and a retinol derivative remain in the lineup, but their formulas have changed so much that they are essentially different products. This article takes a detailed look at the ingredient characteristics, actual concentrations, and real-world feel of the four renewed products.

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Known for its yellow bottle, the "Super High-Pressure Penetration Vitamin C Derivative Essence" is the signature product that raised the brand's profile after its pore-care results were featured in testing projects and the like. The previous version contained about 15% of the moisturizing vitamin C derivative 3-lauryl glyceryl ascorbate and used a relatively simple formula.

In the renewed version, the footnote on the label confirms that ascorbyl tetrahexyldecanoate and 3-lauryl glyceryl ascorbate are included at a combined 15%, and the main ingredient is thought to be the latter, as before. The major changes include the following.

• Change of base ingredient: The base has changed from glycerin to DPG alone, making the formula glycerin-free. This suits people who want to avoid glycerin out of concern for clogged pores and the like, but DPG is a humectant intended for normal skin, and for extremely sensitive skin the previous glycerin-blended formula may have been less irritating.
• Addition of glutathione: Glutathione, which has a reducing action, has been added at 100 ppm (0.01%). However, glutathione needs a fairly high concentration to exert a clear reducing effect, and at high concentrations it gives off a distinctive strong odor. Since this product has almost no odor, and given the 0.01% figure, the amount appears to be closer to a marketing-claim level.
• High concentration of retinyl palmitate: 150,000 IU of retinyl palmitate, a retinol derivative, has been added. This works out to a concentration of about 0.08% (equivalent to about 0.04% pure retinol). It is three-fifths of the 250,000 IU once regarded as the guideline upper limit for retinoids under cosmetic standards, which is a sufficiently high concentration for a cosmetic.

Because the previous version was designed around a vitamin C derivative alone, it was also suitable for morning use to address UV damage during the day. In the new version, however, retinyl palmitate, which readily degrades under UV exposure, has been incorporated at an effective level (150,000 IU). While the product has evolved into a "vita-reti serum" that delivers vitamin C and retinol at the same time, morning use should be avoided in light of UV risk, and the fact that its use has effectively narrowed to a "night-only" formula is a change worth noting.

As you would expect from a glycerin-free formula, it feels very light and silky, with little stickiness. The moist feel when applied to the skin comes from the moisturizing properties of 3-lauryl glyceryl ascorbate itself.

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The red-bottled "Super High-Pressure Penetration Retinol Derivative Essence" was previously built around hydrogenated retinol, with a glycerin-free, BG-based formula that prioritized low irritation. Because hydrogenated retinol is relatively stable under UV, it could be used both morning and night, but the new formula has shifted toward higher performance.

The renewed version explicitly states that it contains 250,000 IU of retinyl palmitate, matching the former safety-guideline upper limit. This is equivalent to about 0.075% pure retinol, and in a retinol cosmetics market where 0.1% is considered very high, it is a top-tier concentration for a regular cosmetic that is not a quasi-drug.

In addition, the following ingredients have been added, giving the retinol function multiple pathways.

• Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (Granactive Retinoid): A retinoid that acts directly while being low in irritation.
• Retinyl linoleate: An ester-type retinol derivative.
• Hydrogenated retinol and bakuchiol: In addition to the previous stable derivative, a plant-based retinoid-like ingredient is included.
• Polynucleotide (sodium DNA) at 1,000 ppm (0.1%): A PDRN-like ingredient. Its extremely high molecular weight makes penetration deep into the stratum corneum a challenge, but it is included in a substantial amount.
• Aspergillus ferment: A fermented raw material said to contain 189 types of peptides. Niacinamide and CICA extracts (Centella asiatica extract, madecassoside, asiaticoside) are also included.

The base ingredient has changed from BG to propanediol, and a trace amount of glycerin is listed near the end of the full ingredient list (presumed to come from raw materials, so in terms of feel it is close to glycerin-free). In addition, in place of the previous penetration enhancer (Wilbride), PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate has been adopted as an emulsifier.

Because it contains high concentrations of retinyl palmitate and retinyl linoleate, morning use is not recommended, as with the vitamin C product, and it has become a night-only serum. When actually applied, you can detect a faint, distinctive seaweed-like scent from the raw materials and the tingling sensation characteristic of high-concentration retinol. Although it is gentler than pure retinol, it cannot be called suitable for sensitive skin; it is a serious formulation aimed at people seeking robust aging care (*age-appropriate care).

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The "Super High-Pressure Penetration Niacinamide Essence" replaces the previous placenta extract type (blue). Its composition has been completely revamped from the old product, with Galactomyces ferment filtrate placed before water as the main ingredient, accounting for 60% of the total.

Galactomyces ferment filtrate is the supernatant of liquid obtained through yeast fermentation and is also known as a key ingredient in luxury skincare. However, as with sake and wine, the quality and price of the resulting ingredient vary enormously depending on the material being fermented, the temperature, and the manufacturing process. Because the base material fermented to produce the Galactomyces ferment filtrate in this product is not disclosed, it cannot be equated with the well-known ingredient from other companies, but using a fermented liquid containing amino acids and natural moisturizing factors for 60% of the formula instead of water as the base can be called a luxurious design.

The packaging highlights "26% niacinamide," but the footnote reads "26% combined as raw materials containing niacinamide (moisturizing ingredient)." This means that the formula does not contain 26% pure niacinamide powder; rather, it is the percentage of a composite raw material that includes solvents and the like. The actual concentration of niacinamide alone is estimated to be around 10% or lower, but that is still a high concentration for a cosmetic.

In addition, the product contains 2% ascorbyl glucoside (a vitamin C derivative), a concentration comparable to that recognized as an active whitening ingredient in quasi-drugs. It is free of seven ingredients, including fragrance, colorants, parabens, alcohol, and glycerin.

The liquid itself has a yellowish tint from a colorant (caramel), and when viewed through the container, it combines with the blue glass to appear green. In terms of feel, it shows the slow absorption and tendency to slide over the skin's surface characteristic of high-concentration niacinamide, and friction can make it foam up white. Applying it before makeup could interfere with the finish of base makeup, so it is safer to use this one at night as well.

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Replacing the previous ceramide type (green) is the "Super High-Pressure Penetration Azelaic Acid Derivative Essence," Kazunosuke's "top pick" this time. It retains the five human-identical ceramides (EOP, NG, NP, AG, AP) that characterized the old product while making an azelaic acid derivative the centerpiece.

The product's biggest feature is that it contains 16% potassium azeloyl diglycinate (an azelaic acid derivative). Unlike the niacinamide product, the footnote makes no mention of a composite raw material, and the 16% claim refers to the amount of potassium azeloyl diglycinate itself.

• Azelaic acid derivative (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) 16%: Pure azelaic acid is poorly soluble and prone to crystallization, so high concentrations inevitably require a cream format. The derivatized potassium azeloyl diglycinate, by contrast, is water-soluble and can maintain a fresh, watery essence format. Although the evidence is not as strong as for pure azelaic acid, there are reports on sebum control and pore care, and this is close to the maximum concentration for a water-based serum in Japan.
• Glycylglycine 2%: A peptide ingredient being studied for refining the texture of funnel-shaped pores; 2% is a high concentration.
• Measures to reduce irritation: The base uses isopentyldiol, which is less irritating than DPG, and the formula is glycerin-free and alcohol-free, with CICA ingredients (Centella asiatica extract, etc.) and allantoin.

Normally, potassium azeloyl diglycinate tends to cause a characteristic stinging sensation at high concentrations, and it is not uncommon for people with sensitive skin to find it difficult to apply. In actual use, however, despite the light, silky texture of a glycerin-free formula, the intense irritation and zapping sensation right after application were kept in check, resulting in a relatively easy-to-use texture.

For oily and combination skin troubled by excess sebum and enlarged pores, a commercially available product that delivers this concentration of an azelaic acid derivative together with glycylglycine in a water-soluble texture is extremely rare, and it is rated as the most practical and distinctive product in this renewed lineup.

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This overhaul of the unlabel LAB essences is not a minor tweak but a fundamental redefinition of the formulations and target audiences.

1. A shift from day-and-night use to "night-only, serious care" As a result of pushing ingredient concentrations to the limit across the board, the products now include retinol derivatives that have stability issues under UV (the vitamin C essence and the retinol essence), or exhibit sliding and a filmy feel caused by high concentrations of raw materials (the niacinamide essence). They are better suited to intensive nighttime care than to use before morning makeup.

2. Thoroughgoing glycerin-free formulation Every product consistently uses a glycerin-free formula (or contains only extremely trace amounts derived from raw materials), favored by people concerned about oily skin and pore problems, in pursuit of a non-sticky feel.

3. Rewriting the concentration standards of the budget price range While maintaining a low price of ¥1,980 (including tax) for 50 ml, the products achieve concentrations normally seen only in high-end or overseas cosmetics, such as 250,000 IU of retinyl palmitate, 16% potassium azeloyl diglycinate, and 15% vitamin C derivative.

If you choose based on an understanding of each ingredient's benefits and caveats in light of your own skin type and concerns, these products can be an option that takes your daily skincare up a notch.