Ella Rubin on Cystic Acne, Playing Annie in Sterling Point, and Cutting Her Own Split Ends

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Overview

In this Vogue Beauty Secrets episode, actor Ella Rubin goes through an everyday skincare routine, an "everyday plus" makeup look, and a quick hair refresh. Along the way, Rubin describes healing from a severe bout of cystic acne, explains how the character Annie in Sterling Point was built, and compares the actor to the role, noting where the two overlap and where they differ.

11 min read

Cleansing, and the Breakout That Changed Rubin's Skin

The routine starts with Vanicream, which Rubin calls a "tried and true" cleanser, a "holy grail," and a product their grandmother also uses. The cleanser goes down onto the neck. Rubin rubs it off rather than patting because the skin reddens easily, and points out some acne scars.

Rubin had never had real skin problems until about two years ago, when "the craziest breakout" of their life arrived: deep, painful cystic acne. It has since healed. Rubin credits micro-needling and red light therapy with helping a lot, and uses an LED mask on camera, waiting until it finishes before moving on.

Rubin thinks the breakout happened during the strike. That timing meant there was room to heal, but Rubin stresses that it was painful "in many ways" and "really, really sucked" at the time. Looking back, Rubin tried to use the period to detach from their physical appearance. The idea was that this might be the one time in life they would have acne, and so it could be practice in "accepting where your face is at." Rubin says that in the long run the experience helped, while acknowledging that it's easier to talk about it this way now.

Serums, Moisturizer, and a Wish

The first serum is one Rubin stays "loyal to" because it was one of the only serums that didn't aggravate a stretch of perioral dermatitis. Next comes SIV's biome balancing serum, which Rubin also puts on the arms to deal with "bumpy red arms." After that come eye cream and a gel moisturizer. Rubin used to rely on thick, heavy moisturizers and still sometimes does, but realized they aren't really necessary.

When a stray eyelash turns up, Rubin makes a wish on it and jokingly calls that another step in the routine. A short face massage follows.

New York, and Annie's "Excessive" Routine

Rubin grew up in New York City, still lives there, and calls themself "a loyal New Yorker." Annie, the character Rubin plays in Sterling Point, is also a New Yorker, born and raised in Brooklyn, and has a "very excessive" skincare routine. In the first episode, Annie goes "full-on" at it.

What Rubin enjoyed about that scene is that Annie does the steps incorrectly and treats her face and body aggressively. Rubin says this wasn't planned. It came from Rubin's reading of the character: Annie is intense and always operating at an intense level, and when someone is "white-knuckle gripping life" that way, it made sense that she'd treat her face the same way. Rubin says it has "meant everything" that people find Annie relatable, and that many people have said they get her, are her, or know her.

Iron, Sunscreen, and Barely-There Makeup on Set

Rubin is in LA for the shoot and shows off a product they have only because of that, admitting to being "kind of ashamed" of enjoying the perks of LA. While filming Sterling Point, Rubin found out they have extremely low iron, so they now take an iron supplement along with vitamin C, which it's supposed to be taken with.

Sunscreen is next. Rubin admits to not being good about it, which is why some marks are "sticking around," and also says they like having a little color and seeing their freckles come out.

That connects to something Rubin loved about the show. The director, Megan, barely wanted anything on the actors' skin, and makeup artist Skye focused on caring for their skin, keeping the looks minimal and making sure the actors didn't look "done." Rubin says they had never worn less makeup on a job. It felt "really freeing" and led Rubin to wear less makeup in everyday life too. Aquaphor on the lips follows.

Where Rubin and Annie Overlap, and Where They Don't

Rubin says that as a teenager they were quite different from Annie, being "really type B." One thing they did share was the belief that trying hard enough would lead to perfection. Rubin acknowledges that nobody is perfect and that it's fine, but at the time the thinking was "if I just try hard enough I actually will be," which Rubin says "only results in pain and suffering."

While applying a CC cream ("a little bit really goes a long way," and even the amount used here is "a bit much"), Rubin shares a set detail. The cast often used Mario Badescu's drying pimple cream, and sometimes Rubin simply kept it on in a scene. Because Annie struggles with her skin, whenever Rubin had a pimple the thinking was "Annie's struggling with her skin today, I guess." Rubin describes this as keeping things as real as possible. The CC cream also goes down the neck to even out the color.

Getting the Age Right

Rubin curls the lashes after concealer, which means redoing the concealer that transfers. Meanwhile, Rubin talks about how both they and Megan were committed to making the characters feel authentically their age, with language that sounds right. Rubin credits a lot of this to the writing and also to remembering being that age, which "wasn't so long ago."

Rubin says the key to Annie is that she is "fronting as an adult." Rubin understood her intuitively as a teenager filtered through an attempt at adulthood. Over the series, Annie becomes a kid again: she turns into a normal teenage girl who no longer has to do a thousand-step skincare routine, be perfect, or look after her father. Rubin sees that arc as part of the beauty of the series.

Rubin relates to a lot about Annie and helped build the character, and says it's understandable that people assume the two are the same. The team kept much of Rubin's natural physicality and "loosey-gooseyness," so Rubin walks like Annie but insists, "I am not her." As a fun fact, Rubin was voted on set as the cast member least like their character.

The Closet Scene and the Episode Six Monologue

While blending two concealer shades, Rubin explains that the closet scene was partly inspired by their childhood. It wasn't the scene itself but the concept. The monologue in episode six was partly improvised and partly the result of Megan's collaborative approach. While they discussed that episode, which Rubin calls the "pinnacle" of the series, Megan asked whether anything about Annie was missing that people needed to know. Annie is thinking a lot about her girlhood and what she missed. Rubin felt there should be a monologue about how she doesn't remember getting her period. Megan's response was, "Hell yeah, let's do it." Rubin says they can't believe they got to collaborate that way.

The childhood link is this: Rubin's mother had a closet Rubin would sit in often while growing up. Calling themself "a stressed-out kid," Rubin remembers lighting a little fake candle in there and meditating, pretending to have everything together at six years old. Rubin then jokes, "Maybe I am Annie."

Contour, and a Mispronounced Rihanna

Rubin applies a bronzer contour, goes back in with concealer, and uses a lighter contour shade on the nose. At one point Rubin says "sha" instead of "shade," realizes the product is from Rihanna's brand, and apologizes to Rihanna, explaining they've owned it for years and the slip "was bound to happen." Rubin says the shade mimics a shadow and brings it slightly into the eyebrow to connect everything. A darker Benetint, which Rubin also used on set, goes on the cheeks and over the nose.

A Two-Day First Job

Rubin's first film role was "the tiniest part" in The Rewrite, at age 11. Marisa Tomei played Rubin's mother, and about eight years later she played Rubin's mother again in a play Rubin did, which Rubin calls "really wild." Hugh Grant was also in the film, and Rubin remembers him coming by, shaking hands, and saying, "I heard you're a troublemaker." Rubin felt so grown up that the thought was: "I'm a woman and I'm respected in my industry." The job lasted about two days. Rubin remembers overhearing the crew discuss the wrap party and asking what they were wearing because Rubin "might go too."

Screen Dads and Lookalikes

Rubin applies a product used on Sterling Point and talks about the show's "amazing screen dads." Jay Duplass plays Annie's professor. Rubin calls him a mentor, a friend, and a hero in many ways, and describes reuniting with him as "real wish fulfillment." With a spoiler warning, Rubin notes that his character is Ramona's biological father, not Annie's, "and yet I think I look exactly like him."

Rubin uses Chanel balms as a highlighter and a little as eyeshadow. Rubin has noticed many online posts claiming they look like various other people. When someone asked whether that was frustrating, Rubin said no, it's "awesome." The women they're compared to are beautiful and talented, and Rubin says, "I'll take it all day."

Lip Liners and a Family Resemblance

Rubin uses several lip liners. The Rhode one adds a shadowy effect, and then Rubin lines more precisely, overlining only in a few spots, which Rubin says "does the trick." Another liner is a color Rubin's mother has worn for as long as Rubin can remember. That prompts Rubin's own answer to the lookalike question: "I look just like my mom," and like their grandmother. Rubin describes the grandmother as very glamorous, always a bit put together but still pared back, and "the most stunning, luminous woman." Rubin believes, while noting it's from memory, that she competed in beauty pageants at around Rubin's age and met Rubin's grandfather that way.

Finishing the Face

For the eyes, Rubin shows off the ability to close one eye at a time while working on the other, and then "just go[es] for it." Sometimes Rubin adds a few freckles and does so today, then adds a light shade and calls the result "everyday plus." Mascara gets onto the eyelid, so Rubin waits for it to dry before cleaning it up. In the meantime Rubin uses a throat spray, describing it as a major help because they travel a lot for work and get sick easily. The makeup brush is missing, so the powder goes on with fingers.

Scalp Massage and the Split-End Trim

Rubin says people have asked about the hair routine. It starts with a scalp massage, which Rubin believes helps hair grow by getting things "flowing," and which also just feels nice.

Then Rubin trims split ends on camera, acknowledging it "seems insane" but advising, "You can't think too hard. You just got to do it." On set, Rubin and co-star Amalie picked each other's split ends, which Rubin jokingly calls a "toxic relationship." Rubin now cuts the split ends off instead of picking them.

After putting the scissors down, Rubin applies a hair milk serum. For rough ends, especially right after a trim, Rubin adds a bond smoother, sometimes mixing the two. The last step is body oil, based on Rubin's grandmother's rule to always be moisturized, every day, "non-negotiable."

Rubin presents the final look before heading to dinner with friends, joking that it's time to stop before cutting or fussing with the hair any more.