Unboxing a Painted Mugler Gown: Emma Chamberlain's Met Gala Fitting with Jared Ellner
VOGUE JAPANIn this Vogue video, stylist Jared Ellner and Emma Chamberlain meet in New York for a fitting of Emma's Met Gala look, a project Jared says they have worked on for months and that has now reached "crunch time." The session covers the first in-person look at the finished pieces, the story of how the Mugler collaboration began, the artistic idea behind the gown, and the practical decisions still open: hair, eyebrows, accessories, sleeve length, and tailoring. The two describe the look as more personal to Emma than any previous Met Gala dress.
Seeing the Dress in Person
The fitting opens with a reunion. Emma and Jared say they have not seen each other in about two weeks. The pieces arrive in a wooden crate that has to be unscrewed with power tools. Jared jokes that fashion does involve power tools and "elbow grease," and teases Emma that she has only used one as a prop at a photo shoot. Before the lid comes off, Jared asks whether Emma has had a tetanus shot, since the box has nails. Emma calls it "Christmas in May."
Emma says she is "literally speechless," then admits that sounds cringe. She makes a point about why seeing the dress in person matters. She had seen photos of the gown at every stage of its making. Even so, being able to see that it was actually painted is something she says a photograph can never convey. Jared agrees that it is "so much better in person."
As they unpack, the two say they know the dress well but keep rediscovering details. Jared says handling it feels like caring for a newborn. Both say they expect to cry at some point, and both admit they already got emotional the night before while falling asleep.
How the Mugler Collaboration Started
Both looks in the video, the carpet gown and a shorter interview look, are by Mugler. The pair explain that they met Miguel, the house's creative director, at a Vogue cocktail event in Paris during a past fashion week. His debut show was the next day. They describe a "gorgeous hang" and note that all of them are Geminis.
At that show, Jared recalls, Emma turned to them and said it would be fun to wear Mugler for the Met. The show had a strong mood, and the idea turned into the dress now in front of them. They call the result "so elegant but yet so major." Jared adds that people on Reddit may disagree about calling it major. Emma responds that she doesn't care, because it is major "to us in our hearts."
The Concept: Art, Painting, and a Creepy Undertone
The finished gown looks hand-painted, and Emma says putting it on makes her feel as though she is in a Van Gogh painting. A notable feature is a set of sculpted hands that arrive tied up in the crate. Jared keeps building suspense about them before they are unwrapped.
Jared explains the goal: something that clearly references art but could also be taken off and displayed in a museum as an object in its own right. Jared points to Emma's affinity for painting, especially more abstract painting, as the starting point. The team made a mood board and held a call with Miguel, someone named Nikki, and the Mugler team. They then received a single sketch. Jared says this may be the first year the two approved a sketch with no notes at all.
Emma connects the theme to her background. Her father is an artist and she grew up in a very creative household. When the theme was announced, she felt this might be the most personal Met Gala dress she has ever worn. She describes her taste as "beautiful but with a creepy undertone," and says the gown captures it.
She expands on this through the way she experiences paintings. A painting that resonates with her leaves her intrigued, with a complex emotion she wants to uncover. She sees the same "subtle complexity" in the gown. It is beautiful overall, but details such as the hands and the bleeding, watercolor-like painting create an edge, a kind of friction.
Jared also stresses the labor involved. Watching images come in during production, they felt the team was putting great care and ideas into the piece, and Jared estimates more than a thousand hours went into it. Jared calls that sense of heart from a design team rare.
Hair and Makeup, Decided on the Spot
The two had held off on hair and makeup decisions until this fitting. As Emma puts it, they had seen photos of the look, but "you don't know until it's on," so they waited to see what the dress needs.
The main open question is hair. They are considering dyeing Emma's platinum hair brown and brought a wig to test it. Emma says in advance that she loves how her platinum looks with the dress and doubts she will want to change it, but they try the wig anyway. The wig turns out better than Emma expected. Still, both lean toward blonde, with Jared saying "I do think it's blonde." Their plan is to photograph the look both with and without the wig. Even though they like deciding in person, they say, what counts is how it photographs. They describe their friendly debates as what makes them a good team.
Emma says she will "for sure" bleach her eyebrows, though she concedes the look is pretty with brows too. She jokes that Jared hates eyebrows. Jared says that when Emma's brows are bleached, things feel right. Jared's reasoning is that for an editorial carpet moment, bleached brows leave a lot of room for makeup.
Accessories and Adjustments to the Gown
For earrings, Emma and Jared both prefer the yellow option. Emma thinks rings are unnecessary because her hands will barely be visible.
That leads to a sleeve adjustment. Jared wonders whether the sleeve should sit slightly higher so that when Emma puts her hands on her hips, her fingers show. Emma agrees, and they discuss leaving a small section open there. They try shoes and note that the pair they had planned on may not give enough height. They also consider pinning the whole sleeve slimmer. Emma says she likes it feeling "like second skin."
Jared suggests stitching Emma into the dress right before she leaves so it sits exactly where they want. That reminds Emma of an earlier event, when they had to cut her underwear seconds before going out because the lines were showing, even though she needed to wear some. Once the gown is fully on, Jared takes photos. Both say they are choked up and very proud of the dress, and Emma says she wishes Miguel were there to hug.
The Interview Look
They then switch to a mini. Emma calls it her interview look, "a little more understated, a little more comfortable." With her hands free, she can handle microphones. The look includes painted shoes. Because each piece is hand-painted, each one differs slightly, and Emma says the outfit is comfortable enough to wear to yoga.
This look has a separate underskirt, and they start improvising. One idea is to tack and bunch the fabric so a visible seam disappears, and both like the result. Jared lists planned changes, several borrowed from the carpet gown:
- removing the grosgrain waistband that peeks out from the underskirt, as they did on the carpet dress, for a clean line
- removing wrinkles through the shoulders
- raising the armpit slightly
- shortening the sleeves and possibly taking in the wrist
Jared notes that, for them, this counts as fairly minimal alterations.
What Remains Before the Carpet
The video ends on logistics rather than a final verdict. Jared says they need to work out how long the tailoring will take. They hope to hold another fitting the next day, or Sunday if not, and then wait. Emma describes her role until then as studying up, protecting her peace, and resting. At the end they remember they have another fitting that same night.
Several decisions shown in the video are still unresolved at this point: blonde versus brown hair (leaning blonde), the final shoes, the sleeve and finger opening, and how to handle the mini's skirt.
Hi Vogue, it's Jared Ellner. We are here in New York. We're fitting Emma's Met Gala dress. I'm so excited. We've been working on it for months. Now is like crunch time. We have some work to do.
Emma! Woah! Oh! Oh! Just give us a minute. Just give us a... We haven't seen each other in like 2 weeks. Oh, I miss you! I miss you so much. They can't believe it. Oh!
What? What? Wait, this is off. It's so cringe to say like, "I'm speechless." But I'm literally speechless. And this isn't even like the real one. This girl is... This is like the full shebang. This is mama dress over here. Wait, I cannot believe...
I just want to like touch it. I know I want to touch it too, but I'm like scared. Should we touch it? I want to like lick it. Wait, that's how we celebrate after we're done. We'll certainly lick it. I'm going to bring it home and then we're going to lick it. Just to see what it's like. That's smart.
It's just so much better in person. It is true. Like that's why I freaked out. It's like, have I seen this dress, photos of this dress every step of the way? 100%. But there is something about the way that you can see that this was painted on in real life that just... Yeah, a photo's never going to give you that.
You guys, we're unscrewing the crate. We do use power tools in fashion. We do absolutely use power tools. We do put elbow grease into things. Have you ever used a power tool? Yes, Jared. As a prop for a photo shoot.
I don't know if any of this is usable cuz everyone's talking, but it's cool for us. It's cool for us. This is our memory. Me and Jared's memory. Don't you think that we're going to cry at some point? Can I be honest? Right as I was falling asleep I did last night. I did last night. Wow.
We're opening the box. Oh, should we say that together? We're opening the box. Just be careful of nails. Do you have a tetanus shot? I have a tetanus shot. Great. This is a treacherous box. We're risking... Wow. Wow. It's like Christmas. This is Christmas in May.
Oh. You're tighter than I am. I'm thinking ahead. Delicately and with tact. Slow hand. Oh my god. This is so sick. What if I throw up on it?
Oh, there's the hand things. Wait. We know this dress so well, but we're remembering things as we go. Wow. So sick. I feel like I'm dealing with a newborn. This is like a newborn baby to me. This is good practice for... For motherhood.
Both of these dresses are Mugler. Miguel, the creative director, who we had the lovely opportunity of meeting in Paris. When was it? Two fashion weeks ago. We went to a cocktail event with Vogue and we met him, which was so special and cool cuz we were about to go to his debut show the following day. We just had a gorgeous hang. He's a Gemini. We're Geminis. Yes. Yes. We're all Geminis. Here we are. And we just really fell in love with him and the whole team.
I feel like I'm going to cry at some point. And it's like I'm starting to get a little... little cry tingles. Oh. It's not bad. It's not bad.
We went to the show and literally I remember you turned to me and you were like, "Ooh, it'd be so fun to wear them for Met." Cuz the show was such a good vibe and so strong and somehow, you know, we're here. It's somehow like so elegant but yet like so major.
It's just, I mean, I think we've like... Even care if we say it's so major and then people on Reddit are like, "No, it's not." Chopped. Yes. I don't care because to me this is major. This is about us in our hearts. Let's get it on.
I feel like I'm in a Van Gogh painting. Wait, we need to untie the hands. Just you wait for what these hands are going to be. Ooh. Look at that hand. Wow. Wait, let me see that hand. Isn't that amazing? That's a good hand. That's a really good hand.
We're contemplating if I do a little hair switch up, dye my hair brown. From the bottom. I'm bleaching my eyebrows for sure. Although, it is kind of pretty with the brow, but I don't know. Jared's fully just against eyebrows. Like Jared hates eyebrows. Something happens when Emma bleaches her brows, like there's peace in the world. Like things are just right. So... Yeah, he loves it.
For a crazy editorial carpet and a moment like this, it just gives so much room for makeup in such a nice way. We have been holding off really deciding hair and makeup until right now cuz we've seen photos of this look, but you don't know until it's on. And so I think, yeah, we've not rushed to make a plan until we see what it needs in a way. We're kind of coming up with it as we go.
We brought a little wig so that we could try on, see what brown hair is going to look like with this. I'm really loving how my platinum looks with this so I don't think I'm actually going to want to change it, but why don't we just pop it on? Kind of have a mullet right now so it's like showing out the back. Okay. It's actually better than I thought. Cool. Wait.
We've been debating this so hard, in a fun friendly way. Well, we have gorgeous debates, Jared and I. That's what makes us a good team. If we didn't debate it would be boring. Boring. There we go. Boom.
I think our plan was take some photos with wig, without wig, cuz honestly as much as we like to decide in person, it's all about how it photographs. See, I do think it's blonde. I think it's great blonde.
I feel like our goal with this was to create something that very clearly referenced art but also just felt like it could be taken off and put in a museum on its own. You have such affinity for painting, especially kind of more abstract paintings. We sort of put together a mood board and had a call with Miguel and Nikki and the team. This might be the first year where we got one sketch and we had no notes. Yeah. And we were just like, yes.
My dad's an artist. I grew up in a very creative household. So when this theme came out I was like, I feel like this Met Gala dress might be the most me, to my core and in my soul, Met Gala dress ever. Like beautiful but with a creepy undertone. That's what I'm really drawn towards, and so I feel like this has that in a way that I'm so stoked by.
And I think, I mean, you can tell as we were receiving images, it was like they are putting so much love and effort and ideas into this. I think it was like a thousand plus hours that went into making this. And Miguel and the team, you can tell, put their hearts into it, and that's a feeling that's very rare. We're definitely feeling it right now.
There's like a feeling I get when I look at a painting that really resonates with me. I almost feel a little... like I feel intrigued. There's a complex emotion here that I want to uncover. It's a subtle complexity, and I feel like this gown has that feeling to it where it is very beautiful, but then there are little elements, the hands, the bleeding sort of watercolor, that kind of gives it this edge, this friction.
Which earring do you like? I have an answer. One of each. Totally. I kind of like the yellow. I like the yellow, too. I don't think we even need rings. We're not even going to see my hands, really.
I'm curious if the sleeve should be slightly higher. Like if the fingers start there, so that when you put your hands on your hips, you see your fingers. A little finger. I agree. I think that might be nice. I agree. So maybe like a solid chunk there. Let me try a shoe. I was going to say. We were planning on these, but we might need some more height.
All right, we can also pin the whole sleeve slimmer. I do like it feeling like second skin. Yeah, we may want to stitch you in before you leave, like the moment of, so that it's exactly placed where we want it.
When you cut my underwear. Oh my god. Remember? That is so crazy. Like seconds before, we had to cut my underwear one night. Cuz you could see underwear lines in a weird way, but I needed to wear underwear.
Jared, do you want to take some photos of me in it? I would love to. That is amazing. It hits so hard. Beautiful dress. Oh my god, I'm like choked up. That's amazing, Erin. You're like, "Oh my god, I look so beautiful. I'm choked up." No, it's not me, it's the dress. I'm so proud of it. I'm so proud of it, too. I wish Miguel was here. We'd give him a big hug. Wow. Okay. Should we try on the mini?
So, this is my interview look. It's something a little more understated, a little more comfortable. Now my hands are available, so I can move the microphones around. It's cool cuz they're a little different, cuz it's hand-painted. Each one has its own vibe. And the little shoe? The little painted shoe? This is so comfortable. I could literally wear this to yoga. Oh, good.
I think for this one, these two pieces are separate. It's like an underskirt. Huh. It's really pretty. Underskirt check. Yeah. Underskirt check is nice. Do you want to see more of that? I know. What if we bunched... Sorry, I'm being crazy, right? No. Or even like... Wait, why is that cool? What if we were to tack this here, and it was bunched, and then you couldn't see that seam? I would not hate that. It's kind of neat. That's kind of gorgeous like that.
Okay, so we'll play with the skirt. And then this skirt underneath has a grosgrain waistband that peeks out through, and we did the same thing on the carpet dress where we removed that, so we'll probably remove it on this, too, so it's just clean. Probably going to do some of the same tailoring, too, where we remove some of these wrinkles through the shoulders, and raise the armpit slightly. Also, we're going to need to cut the arms slightly shorter, and we might want to take the wrist in a little more. And it's kind of crazy, cuz for us this is pretty minimal alterations. Let's spin her up. You got...
We have to assess how long tailoring is going to take. We'll hopefully do a fitting tomorrow, if not on Sunday, and we wait. That's literally it. And you study up. I study up. I protect my peace. I rest. Basically sleep all night. No, I see you tonight. We have another fitting tonight. Oh, we have another fitting tonight. Yeah, I'll see you tonight. Okay. Wait. Okay. Love you. Love you. Mwah.
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