A Deep Dive into Kao's "est Genolux Cream"

Translated from 日本語

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Overview

Beauty chemist Kazunosuke gives a detailed explanation of the formulation, mechanism of action and latest technology behind the cutting-edge anti-aging cream "est Genolux Cream" (50g / ¥14,300 including tax), released by Kao's prestige brand "est."

4 min read

0:06

1. A Fusion of Two Kao High-Tech Technologies

This product is an innovative cream that combines two strands of advanced research Kao has developed over many years.

2:58

① Sebum RNA Analysis Research

  • Kao developed a technology that collects sebum with oil-blotting paper and analyzes "RNA," the cell's work instructions.
  • It was found that conditioning the stratum corneum and suppressing water evaporation shifts the skin toward an RNA expression pattern characteristic of healthy skin (RNA involved in inflammation and excessive barrier building is suppressed).
  • This forms the basis for the approach of "drawing out the skin's natural health by artificially conditioning the stratum corneum on the skin's surface."
8:55

② "Fine Fiber" Formed Just by Applying

  • Previously, Kao's ultra-fine fiber technology "Fine Fiber" had to be sprayed onto the skin using a dedicated device costing about ¥50,000 (such as the Biomimesis Veil Diffuser), and its high price and inconvenience made it hard to adopt widely.
  • This time, through joint research with Asahi Kasei, Kao succeeded in stably dispersing fine cellulose fibers with an average fiber diameter of about 1µm in a cream.
  • It is now possible to form a uniform fiber network (a pseudo-skin film) just by applying it to the skin, without a dedicated machine.

14:53

2. Ingredients and Texture

  • Disintegrated Microfiber (Rayon)
    A cellulose-derived fiber of the same nature as cotton. It carries an extremely low risk of skin irritation or static electricity, and its excellent water retention and moisture absorption keep the skin hydrated.
  • Maltitol & Rich Moisturizing Base
    A low-irritation, high-quality sugar-derived ingredient is used as the base.
  • High-Performance Beauty Ingredients
    • Ectoine: An ultra-hydrating ingredient derived from extremophiles.
    • Diglycol guanidine succinate: A Kao proprietary ingredient that prevents aggregation of keratin in the stratum corneum and enhances water retention.
    • Genolixir: A group of carefully selected plant extracts, including eucalyptus leaf extract (promotes ceramide production) and asunaro extract.
  • Texture
    A smooth cream with no filmy or powdery feel. It has a luxurious floral scent, and its low-irritation formula makes it easy to use even for sensitive skin.

24:08

3. Price Assessment and a Caution on Information Literacy

  • Cost Performance
    The price of ¥14,300 may seem high at first glance, but considering that it condenses the function of Fine Fiber devices, which required an initial investment of about ¥50,000–100,000, into a single cream, its real value can be rated as extremely high.
  • Beware the Misconception That "Your Genes Change"
    Some media and social media posts use exaggerated expressions such as "it changes you at the genetic level," but it does not rewrite DNA (the original genetic blueprint). Correctly understood, it is a dermatological-physiological mechanism in which "conditioning the stratum corneum moves the balance of RNA expression toward a healthy state," and it is important not to be misled by exaggerated claims but to view it as a solid research result.