Inside Gabriette Bechtel's Final Wedding Dress Fitting with Matières Fécales
VOGUE JAPANModel and musician Gabriette Bechtel arrives at Dover Street with her mother and her friend Bailey for the last fitting of her wedding wardrobe, made by the design duo behind Matières Fécales. The fitting has one open question: is the dress finished, and does it match what she has pictured? She has seen videos and photographs of the gown, but not the dress itself, and her mother has not seen it at all.
Eight Months of Planning
Gabriette says she is very excited to be getting married, though the planning has taken about eight months. She jokes that she and her partner should have just eloped. What she is looking forward to most is her mother seeing the dress for the first time. Bailey describes her own role as "emotional support." Before they go in, Gabriette says she hopes the dress is done, thinks it probably is, and has "faith."
She explains why she chose these designers. She has always loved designers such as McQueen and Matières Fécales, who focus on tailoring and "tell stories through fabric." She describes the label's most recent show as "a full story" and says she felt they were a perfect match for her.
Her mother lists three things she is most excited about. The first is seeing her daughter dressed "as a princess." The second is watching her marry her best friend and "the love of her life." The third is seeing everyone celebrate "this amazing event and true love." Gabriette teases her mother for getting emotional before they have even reached the door. On the way in, she struggles over the cobblestones in very high heels and says she wears the highest heels every time she visits and can never quite make it.
How the Designs Came Together
Inside, the group finds custom shoes, and Gabriette jokes that she will need to build a whole new closet. The designers describe how the collaboration began. Their first conversation took place when she came to Paris. At that stage they were not talking about a wedding dress at all. They discussed her inspirations and what appealed to her in fashion generally, and they say her taste "really aligned" with theirs.
They then drew about 30 looks and circled the elements they liked from each one. The designers describe what followed as a "super organic process."
The Main Gown: Victorian Structure and Hand-Distressed Tulle
The designers describe the main wedding dress in detail. It has a hand-pleated, very finely micro-pleated, sculpted bustier top in a style they call Victorian. It also has bustles and several layers of tulle, all of which were distressed by hand. They say the distressing was one of the longest parts of the process.
When Gabriette sees herself in the mirror, she says it is amazing and calls the sleeves perfect. Her mother and friend call it "stunning" and say everything is perfect. The front hem has been raised slightly so she won't trip. With the veil on, she says she feels like a princess and adds, "That was the goal." She says she is "stunned" and wants to hug everyone.
She explains how her idea of a wedding dress changed over the years. When she was growing up, she imagined a backless silk dress with sleeves that covered her hands, and that vision changed every year. The part that stayed with her was the silhouette. She says she has "always been like basically from Dracula," and that she wanted to be a princess. She was confident the designers could get that silhouette exactly right.
Her partner, Matty, has no idea what the dress looks like. She has shown it to a few people, and whenever he looks at them afterward, they "make a little face," so she thinks his imagination is running wild. Her mother and friend both say they did not expect it to be this perfect and that it has exceeded what they imagined.
The Black Dress: Reworking a Vintage Margiela
The second look began as a vintage Margiela dress from Gabriette's personal archive. The designers say they asked whether she was sure she wanted them to cut it and experiment with it. She was happy for them to reinterpret and reimagine a dress she had kept in her closet for a long time. The group connects it to the old tradition of "something old, something new, something blue," and Gabriette calls this dress her "something old."
During the fitting, someone asks whether some of the tulle at the front should be trimmed. Gabriette says her favorite moment is when Steven picks up the scissors.
She also asks whether bridal clothing always has to be white, and answers herself: "Bridal is whatever you want it to be." She says she has always liked black clothing and that it felt right to repurpose a dress she has loved for so long. Her remark about what a dress for "Friday" would originally have been is unclear in the recording. Her main point is that the dress is black because she loves this particular dress.
One of the designers says Gabriette was the inspiration "at every level." She wanted something along the lines of Bram Stoker's Dracula, and the designers say they are passionate about sculpting the body, so her wishes and their approach lined up.
The Third Look: Hat and Champagne
The last outfit comes with a hat, which the group calls "everyone's favorite thing." Gabriette says she has never touched one of his hats before and jokes that she can't tell what her hat size is. She explains that this is the look for the moment she comes out and it's "time to party," champagne in hand. She sees "a little bit of Nicole Kidman, Kylie Minogue" in it.
The Proposal
Gabriette also describes the proposal. Friends of theirs had recently gotten engaged, and she told her partner she did not want to be taken up on stage and sung to. Instead, he proposed privately at home. They had just bought a house, and he placed candles all over the empty living room, leaving a small pathway, then got down on one knee. They had to blow the candles out quickly because she thought the house might catch fire. She says it was about 100 degrees inside, but it was perfect.
Closing
Gabriette confirms this is the third of her three looks. She thanks Hannah, Steven, and everyone at Matières Fécales, and says she will see them at the wedding.
Hi, I'm Gabbriette and I'm here with my mom and my friend Bailey and we're here at Dover Street for my final dress fitting with Matières Fécales. I'm very excited about getting married. It's been like 8 months of planning and I feel like him and I should have just eloped but it's fine. I'm most excited about my mom seeing the dress.
I've seen videos and photographs but not the actual dress.
Yeah.
Not yet.
The dress is perfect. Like so I think I'm just emotional support.
Okay, we're running behind. Get your booties up.
Okay, let's go.
What I'm hoping to see today is my dress. I hope it's done. I think it is. I have faith. I've always loved designers like McQueen and like Matières Fécales that do tailoring and like tell stories through fabric and their last show was just like a full story and I just felt like they were a perfect match.
The most exciting thing about my daughter getting married, well there's a few, there's a few things, not just one. Number one is seeing her dressed as a princess and number two, witnessing my daughter marrying
Mom, we haven't gotten into... Thank you.
her best friend
We haven't gotten inside yet.
the love of her life
That's true.
True?
Yes.
And third is just the celebration, to watch everybody celebrate this amazing event and true love.
Dover Street.
Okay. We're here at Dover Street and we're going to go inside to see my dresses. Oh my gosh, if I can walk on the cobblestone. Every time I come here I wear the highest heel and I can never get there. Vamos.
[laughter]
Hi.
[laughter]
Oh my gosh, you guys.
Oh, look at the shoes.
I'm going to have to like build a whole new closet.
Custom.
[laughter]
Okay, let me take my clothes off.
[laughter]
I can't wait.
First conversation, I guess it's when she came to Paris and we kind of went through her inspirations, things that was like sparking her fancy just in terms of like fashion in general, not even about a wedding dress. It was more just her taste and what she liked and it really aligned.
I think we, I drew like 30 looks and then we sort of circled out different things that we liked from each and then it became like a super organic process. The main look, the wedding dress, which is this beautiful hand pleated, very micro pleated, sculpted
bustier top and
that is very much
Victorian.
It has bustles and multiple layers of tulle and it's all been hand distressed. I think that was one of the longest parts that we did.
Are you already crying? But I don't have my... Isn't it beautiful?
Stunning.
Stunning. I want to look in the mirror. Oh my gosh, you guys. It's amazing. Isn't it beautiful? I think the sleeves are perfect. Guys, this
Perfect. Everything is perfect.
Everything is perfect.
Then the front, it's raised up a bit so you're not going to trip.
Should we put the veil on?
I feel like a princess. That was the goal.
Stunning. Stunning. Oh my gosh. I want to give you guys a hug. I'm like stunned. Thank you so much.
Oh, thank you.
It feels such a
So, so beautiful.
Honestly, growing up I was like I'm going to have a backless silk dress that like covers my hands and then every single year it changed. But I think that the silhouette that's really stuck with me, I've always been like basically from Dracula. I just wanted to [laughter] to like be a princess I guess and I knew that they could really tackle the silhouette and make it exact. Matty has no idea what I'm doing but there have been a few people that I've shown the dress to and then whenever he like looks at them they make a little face so I think his imagination is sort of, it's running wild.
I don't think I was expecting it to be as perfect.
Yeah.
Like it's exceeded kind of what we thought.
The black dress is [music] a vintage Margiela dress that was from her personal archive. I was like are you sure you want to like cut this and like play around with it and she was super down to kind of reinterpret and reimagine this black dress that she's had in her closet.
Cuz isn't there like something old, something
True. Something old, something new, something blue. So this I guess is the something old.
Honey, that is so
Gosh, it's stunning.
No?
It's so pretty.
It is.
I feel like it's perfect.
Do you think that the front, we need to cut some of the tulle a little bit?
This is my favorite part when Steven gets hold of the scissors. Is bridal always white? Clearly not. You know what? Bridal is whatever you want it to be. I've always been a fan of black clothing and it felt right using this dress that I've loved for so long just to repurpose it. So, I don't know if we like did our dress originally for Friday it would have been black but because I love this one, it's black.
I think Gabbriette really is the inspiration at every level. She really wanted something [music] that was sort of like Bram Stoker's Dracula and we're very passionate about sort of sculpting [music] the body. So, I think it was really an alignment there.
Wow, very slaying.
So, this is everyone's favorite thing.
[laughter]
No, it's just like, it's so cool.
It's so cool.
I don't think I've ever touched one of his hats.
[laughter]
You guys, it's like, I can't tell what my hat size is.
[laughter]
This is when I'm going to come out. Time to party. With a champagne. Honestly, I see a little bit of Nicole Kidman, Kylie Minogue going on.
The proposal was very... Oh. It was very personal. Our friends had recently gotten engaged and I was like I don't know, I don't want you to take me up on stage or anything and like sing to me. So, we just did it very privately in our home. We had just purchased a home. He put candles everywhere in the empty living room. And there was like a little pathway and he got on his knee. And then we had to blow out the candles very quickly cuz I thought the house was going to burn. It was like 100° inside. But it was a perfect.
Thank you for being here for my final fitting. This is my third of three looks. Thank you, Hannah and Steven and everybody at Matières Fécales, and I will see you at the wedding. Bye-bye. Bye-bye.
[laughter]
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